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Routes in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Bogosity (Link-up) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Disputed, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dynamo Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
El, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Squirrels T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PF Flyers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pete's Farewell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raging Raven S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roaches on the Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock and Roll Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run Higher, Jump Faster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Running of the Bulls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Star Sailor T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wald-Calder Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: 1986 Patrick Purcell, Jeff Edwards
Page Views: 498 total, 13/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Oct 7, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Go up past the bolt to a tiny right-facing edge. Reach way left, then up to an RP seam. (An RP works here if weighted by a water bottle to keep it from jiggling out.) Continue straight up past a roof to join Rock and Roll Star (angle up and right to finish on the Triple Cracks).

Location

On the face just right of Rock and Roll Star, below a bolt, at a great undercling flake 6' up.

Protection

Standard rack; one bolt down low, best stick clipped.

Photos

perrotr Perrot
Telluride
  5.11b PG13
perrotr Perrot   Telluride
  5.11b PG13
A small offset nut cranked down in the seam works fine. Semi-sketchy making the moves past the bolt up to the first horizontal. Jul 9, 2016
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11 R
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11 R
Quite spicy, a hard onsight, and approaching R. The RP I placed eventually lifted and could certainly do so in a fall. If it did, you could hit the ground. The water bottle trick is probably a good idea. Sep 28, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
The phrase, "An RP works here if weighted by a water bottle..." is about as terrifying a thing as I've ever read. Daks climbing is the real deal! Put your Old School on and just pull down! Jul 14, 2015