Type: Trad, 860 ft (261 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: 1962 Rutledge, Tom and Jane Morgan
Page Views: 39,712 total · 354/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Jul 6, 2011 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

P1 5.5 G - Climb the left facing corner (right side) of depression for 60 feet, then move across face to left leaning small ledge system (crux). Follow this up for a few moves, then traverse right across slabby terrain up to the fixed anchors, or instead of traversing right continue up the left leaning ledge and traverse above this area to a belay to the right of a roof on a slab (below some trees). 180 feet

P2 5.5 G (with variants up to 5.8 near top of pitch) - Continue up and right for 50 feet, then go straight up into a groove at the steeper section of rock. [to the left on the steeper section there are harder variations, including the left most corner/quasi-chimney that goes about 5.8] Climb this to the base of the ramp (crux). 180 feet

P3 5.3 G (PG runout?) - Climb ramp, following path of least resistance to a belay above a large block (fixed gear slung around large flake/boulder 50 feet above a tree in the corner). 150 feet

P4 5.5 G - Climb below the right facing/leaning corner above the belay for 25 feet (traversing up and right), then regain main corner and follow this to a short wall, climb this to the top anchors (crux) at the left end of a large ledge. 150 feet

P5 4th Class - Traverse right along large ledge 60 feet to some trees below a large right facing corner with a slanting roof about 15 feet up.

P6 5.8 G - Climb corner, then traverse under ceiling into a flared chimney (crux) and right facing corner. At top of corner at grassy ledge step left to the base of another right facing corner. [can sling large block leaning against wall] 70 feet

P7 5.8 G - Climb steep right facing corner to top fixed anchors. 80 feet

Location

Approach via climber's path as described on the main Wallface page (follow cairns). Start at the top of the path near some birch trees, a flat rock, and where two corners form a shallow depression.

Descend using (2) 60m ropes. 4 Raps

Generally Wallface is most accessible sometime May thru early October. Black Flies particularly bad June into July. Exact start/end of climbing season and bugs varies year to year. The approach has many spots that get wet after a good rain or during Spring runoff. This will slow you down significantly. Many choose to camp overnight to split up the trip.

Protection

Some gear anchors, some fixed anchors.

Mostly G, Pitch 3 has some runout but because it's 5 grades easier than the hardest pitch it's considered 'safe' by ADK rock climbing standards.

Photos