Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
Routes in Wallface
|Case Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Diagonal, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Free Ride T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Lewis Elijah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Mental Blocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1|
|Mission to Mars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|No Man's a Pilot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2|
|Out with the boys again T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Pay As You Go T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Prelude to Gravity T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 530 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||1,124 total, 72/month|
|Shared By:||Medic741 on Aug 10, 2016|
DescriptionIf you can comfortably climb 5.8/5.9 free and aid C1 this route is a great objective for you. All >5.10 pitches can be aided with C1 techniques, and the easy free sections are mellow and enjoyable
Great route with clean stable rock, great protection, a pendulum swing, and a real remote feeling. The position is stunning with everything from an overhanging fist crack, to open slab, finishing off with a cruiser changing corner system to the top! If you're an aid climber (or a strong free climber) looking for an adventure this is it. If you are a 5.8/5.9 climber and are able to aid the >5.10 pitches this is a good climb for you.
This is a description of how we did this route, which went quite well. Lawyer's description of Mental Blocks can be found on pg. 461 of Volume 1.
Long day so get up early. Plan 2-3 hours from car - base of climb, this face roasts in the sun so if you're doing it in the summer the earlier you can start the better.
P1: When you arrive at the base of the route you'll look up and see the easily identified 'Lightning-bolt crack.' There will be some small cedars encountered along the way, so it's somewhat a tree-fight on your way up. 5.7, 140'
P2: Beautiful corner into a large roof. Traverse left under the roof, very easy aiding with a variety of sized gear from yellow X4 to larger cams. Make a short step up and belay just above where you exited the route C1 // 5.11c G, 30'
P3: Ascend the thin featured crack that trends right and ends in a corner at a thin seam at the base of a slab where you'll find a rappel station with a piton, fixed nut and slung tree. Stop and belay here for a short pitch before continuing up the slab if you want a close belay. 5.10b (or C1), 60'
P4: step left and continue up the slab with options for small cams and a 0.5 along the way. Climbing felt secure (much more featured and secure than 'Thanksgiving' 5.7X pitch as a comparison). Belay in the corner at a thin seam. From this belay you will be at the height of the gorgeous overhanging fist crack on your left. 5.7 PG-13 60' (Lawyer guidebook says this is an R-rated pitch, felt more like PG-13).
(P3/P4 can be easily linked, this is the 'typical' way of doing this climb. Separating the pitches felt natural)
P5 (P4 if you link 3/4): Step left and tackle the crux, overhanging fist crack that is easily aided if you can't climb 5.12a. Belay immediately after pulling over and onto a small ledge when you reach a thin crack. Looking right of your shoulder you'll start drooling over the next pitch of beautiful hands/fists that goes up and to the right. 5.12a, C1, 40'
P6 (P5 if you link 3/4): follow the crack that goes up and right until you reach the tat for the pendulum! Lower about 15' below the tat, (or insecure down climb) and make a 20' swing to the crack system on climbers right. Ascend the corner and belay on a sloping ledge above where your second will land when he completes the pendulum.
NOTE: Belaying above the end of the pendulum makes it easy to lower a bight of rope for your second to clip into after the second completes the swing (as they'll have to untie and pull the rope from the pendulum anchor before continuing) 5.8 G, A0, 50'
P7 (P6 if you link 3/4): Make a run for the top on the steep and crisp jams and secure face climbing until you make it to the trees. Enjoy the last pitch which is filled with solid rock and an airy, exciting position. 5.7 G, 150'
Descent: Walk climbers left through the trees to the MB rap. We missed the 'official' MB rap station and ended up getting to the ground in (2) 70m and (1) 35m rap. Supposedly you can thrash your way down a walk-off but it would be a very rough hike down.
LocationLocated on the right side of Wallface. When you get to the summit boulder be sure to stop and orient yourself. Looking at the ADK Rock topo some of the features on this route are unmissable and easy to identify:
- Lightning bolt crack of P1
- Traversing roof of P2
Coming from the Upper Works trail: you'll pass a second climbers trail to your left, take the third 'trail,' this consisted of a single cairn descending into thick brush and mossy boulders without a discernible climbers path. More or less, you'll be bushwhacking to the base. If you can't find the trail, don't worry about it too much, just orient yourself to the start when you get a break in the trees and head into the thick brush. It's about 10 minutes from the Indian Pass trail to the start of the climb.
When you arrive, look up and identify the 'lightning bolt cracks' to locate the first pitch, and up you go
ProtectionAiding: Doubles from fingers to 3 with either a 3.5 or 4 for big gear. Small cams down to 000 C3, 1 set ball nuts helpful but very much not necessary. Carried offsets but didn't need to use them.
It's a good idea to carry extra cord and a few rap rings as some rap tat may need replacing when you get to it.
70M rope, 70M tag for multiple rappels