No Man's a Pilot
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in Wallface
|Case Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Diagonal, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Free Ride T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Lewis Elijah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Mental Blocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1|
|Mission to Mars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|No Man's a Pilot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2|
|Out with the boys again T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Pay As You Go T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Prelude to Gravity T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 500 ft, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Peter Metcalf, Lincoln Stoller|
|Page Views:||1,016 total, 21/month|
|Shared By:||John Douglass on Oct 28, 2013|
DescriptionWhen things get congested on the Diagonal, give this route a try. It's a little wet, a little wide, but generally fun outing that doesn't get as much traffic as it probably deserves.
P1 (5.5, 150 ft)- Same as Diagonal first pitch. Start at base of left facing corner and wander up, break out slightly left onto slab, then straight up and right until you find a suitable belay.
P2 (5.5, 140 ft)- Same as Diagonal second pitch. Keep angling straight up and then slightly left towards the base of Diagonal ramp. Climb up Diagonal ramp 20 feet, then take a sharp left into large chimney. You can't miss it. Build belay below steep section.
P3 (5.9, 100 ft)- Take a breath, then scamper up the steep but short blocky chimney with a large flake bissecting the two options. Pull through this section, exhale, and then move up through a short squeeze chimney and on to easier climbing on top. Some loose blocks on this pitch, so keep a eye out. Belay at rappel station with piton and fixed nuts if you like.
P4 (5.8+, 100 ft)- Continue up corner to a wide crack section, and then up another steeper wide section under a large roof. Move left 10 feet across sloping slab past dead tree, and belay on blocky ledge atop the diving board flake.
P5 (C2 perhaps?, 60 ft)- The original finish (we didn't do this but it could be fun, if you're into that sort of thing) Aid your way up the overhanging V-slot directly above the belay to a tree above with rap anchors
P5 (alternate finish, 5.4, 75 ft) - Basically a "C". From belay under overhang, tiptoe 5 feet left around blind corner. Continue traversing left another 15 feet around with lots of exposure under your heels until you can head straight up an easy, vegetated crack splitting a dirty slab. Climb up top and walk around right to get to belay at rap anchors on tree.
Descent: Two double-rope raps along the route to the base of Diagonal ramp. Might be able to do three raps with a single rope as there was a rap anchor in the middle of pitch 4. From base of ramp, we climbed the rest of Diagonal and rapped that route.
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