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Routes in Wallface

Case Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Diagonal, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Ride T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lewis Elijah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Mental Blocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1
Mission to Mars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Man's a Pilot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
Out with the boys again T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pay As You Go T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Prelude to Gravity T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Elevation: 3,600 ft
GPS: 44.137, -74.035 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 50,171 total · 439/month
Shared By: proto on May 28, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer
Getting weather forecast...


Wallface is the largest and tallest cliff of NY state: almost 800' of very steep rock. With its quite long access from the end of the road and rather undefined access to the base of the cliff, Wallface definitely has an alpine dimension. Don't be scared though, climbing this huge cliff is really very interesting and enjoyable!

Getting There

Park at the abandoned village of Upper Works, near Henderson lake. Follow the path (often very muddy ...) towards Indian Pass. You can go up to Summit Rock to have a look at the cliff and chose a line of access in the bush from there. Another option is to leave the path just before it crosses the stream for the last time and follow some cairns to the base of the cliff. This latter option is much faster and very convenient but won't give you the opportunity to have a general look at the cliff .

Budget about 3h from the car to the base of the cliff if you go for the quick option. Add at least 30 minutes if you stop by summit rock.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wallface

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Case Route
Trad 6 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out with the boys again
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Diagonal
Trad 7 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Ride
Trad 8 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission to Mars
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1
Mental Blocks
Trad, Aid 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Case Route
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 6 pitches
Out with the boys again
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
The Diagonal
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
Free Ride
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 8 pitches
Mission to Mars
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Mental Blocks
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1 Trad, Aid 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Wallface »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
Weather- and bug-wise, when is prime season for Wallface? May 22, 2012
Jim Lawyer    
Best weather with no bugs: fall (late August through October). Wallface has BAD black flies, often worse than other cliffs for some reason.

Sometimes you can lose the bugs as you get higher. Other times they get worse as you climb higher. Pray for wind. May 23, 2012
In bug season wear long sleeve shirt and long pants, tuck pants in socks if you can. DEET soaked bandana under helmet that you can rub on face and neck. I wore above outfit and only suffered bites on hands and neck.partner wore tank top and shorts. His legs were covered with blood from his knees to his ankles. he got sick later that night from black fly saliva,puked for 2hrs at wallface lean-to. I HAD TO DRINK THE YUKON JACK ALONE. Oct 13, 2012
Rochester, NY
Sickler   Rochester, NY
I just got back from a couple days at Wallface. The black flies were just starting to come out. It was beautiful up there. May 19, 2013
Mr. Lawyer speaks the truth. Black flies were HORRIBLE. We were swallowing them on the rappels at 5 pm. Never seen it quite that bad. Jul 15, 2013
Hans LaCasse
Canaan, New Hampshire
Hans LaCasse   Canaan, New Hampshire
Any Aid lines at Wall face? Looks pretty steep in some places. Jan 23, 2016
Jim Lawyer    
Hans: There are several aid lines remaining at Wallface, such as Huff 'n Puff and The Mission to Mars. The other notable line is Mental Blocks, which is climbed mainly as a clean aid route, although has gone free as 12a. Jan 24, 2016
Is there a good way to reach the farther north climbs after diagonal by going up the diagonal approach? We just bushwhacked for about an hour, but found absolutely no suitable trails along the base of the cliff, despite the obvious line shown in ADK rock. I guess you just have to hug the cliff and keep trudging?

Just a few notes that may save dumb people like myself some time-(lol)
-When going for the diagonal approach, the "maze of boulders" is around a 1/4 mile, which the guidebook doesn't mention. If you are on a drainage without cairns, you are definitely in the wrong spot.
-The "not well marked" trail that splits off from the drainage is just that. It is about 150ft below where the drainage turns into a slabby section, not right at the base as the book will have you think. Either way, just bushwhack right and you'll hit the trail eventually.

-bugs are out mid june for sure :) Jun 26, 2016
Mike Guthman
Fairfield, CT
Mike Guthman   Fairfield, CT
Hey guys I was there this pass Saturday, upon getting back to the car I realized I lost my iphone. I'm not sure where I lost it and its not in a water proof case so I may SOL but I thought I'd give this a shot. Aug 31, 2016

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