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Wallface

New York > Adirondacks > E: High Peaks Region

Description

Wallface is the largest and tallest cliff of NY state: almost 800' of very steep rock. With its quite long access from the end of the road and rather undefined access to the base of the cliff, Wallface definitely has an alpine dimension. Don't be scared though, climbing this huge cliff is really very interesting and enjoyable!

Getting There

Park at the abandoned village of Upper Works, near Henderson lake. Follow the path (often very muddy ...) towards Indian Pass. You can go up to Summit Rock to have a look at the cliff and chose a line of access in the bush from there. Another option is to leave the path just before it crosses the stream for the last time and follow some cairns to the base of the cliff. This latter option is much faster and very convenient but won't give you the opportunity to have a general look at the cliff .

Budget about 3h from the car to the base of the cliff if you go for the quick option. Add at least 30 minutes if you stop by summit rock.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 7
Out with the boys again
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
Prelude to Gravity
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Mission to Mars
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 154
The Diagonal
Trad 7 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
 4
No Man's a Pilot
Trad, Aid 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 2
Lewis Elijah
Trad 8 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 14
Free Ride
Trad 8 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 2
Pay As You Go
Trad 4 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 6
Case Route
Trad 6 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1
 7
Mental Blocks
Trad, Aid 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Out with the boys again
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Prelude to Gravity
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Mission to Mars
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
The Diagonal
 154
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
No Man's a Pilot
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2 Trad, Aid 5 pitches
Lewis Elijah
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 8 pitches
Free Ride
 14
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 8 pitches
Pay As You Go
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 4 pitches
Case Route
 6
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 6 pitches
Mental Blocks
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1 Trad, Aid 6 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Wallface traverse to final pitches of Diagonal with Don Mellor.
[Hide Photo] Wallface traverse to final pitches of Diagonal with Don Mellor.
Wallface from Henderson Lake
[Hide Photo] Wallface from Henderson Lake
Unique view of Wallface. You can see the finishing corners of Pleasure Victim and Free Ride, the shield, the corner of No Man's a Pilot, and the finish of the Diagonal.
[Hide Photo] Unique view of Wallface. You can see the finishing corners of Pleasure Victim and Free Ride, the shield, the corner of No Man's a Pilot, and the finish of the Diagonal.
Climbers on Free Ride(5.11a) 9-5-09 <br>
If this is you contact me. I have more photos
[Hide Photo] Climbers on Free Ride(5.11a) 9-5-09 If this is you contact me. I have more photos
Sir Wallface.
[Hide Photo] Sir Wallface.
Wallface from Algonquin in October
[Hide Photo] Wallface from Algonquin in October
Wallface
[Hide Photo] Wallface
Out with the Boys Again.
[Hide Photo] Out with the Boys Again.
Arch Madness Pitch 3 (photo--with permission--by Brian Chalmers)
[Hide Photo] Arch Madness Pitch 3 (photo--with permission--by Brian Chalmers)
Sir Wallface.
[Hide Photo] Sir Wallface.
Wallface from the summit of Algonquin.
[Hide Photo] Wallface from the summit of Algonquin.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Weather- and bug-wise, when is prime season for Wallface? May 22, 2012
[Hide Comment] Best weather with no bugs: fall (late August through October). Wallface has BAD black flies, often worse than other cliffs for some reason.

Sometimes you can lose the bugs as you get higher. Other times they get worse as you climb higher. Pray for wind. May 23, 2012
[Hide Comment] In bug season wear long sleeve shirt and long pants, tuck pants in socks if you can. DEET soaked bandana under helmet that you can rub on face and neck. I wore above outfit and only suffered bites on hands and neck.partner wore tank top and shorts. His legs were covered with blood from his knees to his ankles. he got sick later that night from black fly saliva,puked for 2hrs at wallface lean-to. I HAD TO DRINK THE YUKON JACK ALONE. Oct 13, 2012
Sickler
Springfield, MO
[Hide Comment] I just got back from a couple days at Wallface. The black flies were just starting to come out. It was beautiful up there. May 19, 2013
[Hide Comment] Mr. Lawyer speaks the truth. Black flies were HORRIBLE. We were swallowing them on the rappels at 5 pm. Never seen it quite that bad. Jul 15, 2013
Hans Lacasse
Canaan, NH
[Hide Comment] Any Aid lines at Wall face? Looks pretty steep in some places. Jan 23, 2016
[Hide Comment] Hans: There are several aid lines remaining at Wallface, such as Huff 'n Puff and The Mission to Mars. The other notable line is Mental Blocks, which is climbed mainly as a clean aid route, although has gone free as 12a. Jan 24, 2016
[Hide Comment] Is there a good way to reach the farther north climbs after diagonal by going up the diagonal approach? We just bushwhacked for about an hour, but found absolutely no suitable trails along the base of the cliff, despite the obvious line shown in ADK rock. I guess you just have to hug the cliff and keep trudging?

Just a few notes that may save dumb people like myself some time-(lol)
-When going for the diagonal approach, the "maze of boulders" is around a 1/4 mile, which the guidebook doesn't mention. If you are on a drainage without cairns, you are definitely in the wrong spot.
-The "not well marked" trail that splits off from the drainage is just that. It is about 150ft below where the drainage turns into a slabby section, not right at the base as the book will have you think. Either way, just bushwhack right and you'll hit the trail eventually.

-bugs are out mid june for sure :) Jun 26, 2016
Mike Guthman
Fairfield, CT
[Hide Comment] Hey guys I was there this pass Saturday, upon getting back to the car I realized I lost my iphone. I'm not sure where I lost it and its not in a water proof case so I may SOL but I thought I'd give this a shot. Aug 31, 2016
Kristen Fiore
Burlington, VT
[Hide Comment] The rap stations on the central rappel are getting pretty tired. Not the cord but the trees on those ledges are all pretty small and not in great health. I'm a svelte 125 pound lad and my partner said they were groaning under my weight.

Might be time to consider some stations of the shiny metal variety in the next few years before someone gets hurt. Sep 13, 2020
Brandon Gonzalez
Brooklyn NY
[Hide Comment] Bring a spare pair of socks. The approach is very wet and boggy, and you'll be thankful to have dry socks after you inevitably step into water or mud you thought was more solid than it actually is. Oct 2, 2022
Troy Shields
Montreal, QC
[Hide Comment] Is it possible to walk off? Specifically for the Diagonal? Oct 17, 2022
Ross Manny
Saranac Lake, NY
[Hide Comment] Troy,

It IS possible, but is not recommended. It would take either a fair amount of bushwacking and a solid bit of trail or a whole lot of bushwacking and a little bit of trail to get around if you were going back to the base. Also, don't come in from the Loj. I know some people that have made that silly mistake. You didn't ask for it, but my recommendation having done the route a couple times: drive to the upper works to save yourself 2 hours of hiking each way, and rap off with double ropes. Sleep at the lean to the night before to make it a two day outing and really relax with it. Nov 2, 2022