Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wallface

Case Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Diagonal, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Ride T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lewis Elijah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Mental Blocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1
Mission to Mars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Man's a Pilot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
Out with the boys again T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pay As You Go T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Prelude to Gravity T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jamie Savage, Tad Welch & Bill Widrig, 5/13/86
Page Views: 3,116 total, 30/month
Shared By: proto on May 29, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb the very nice zigzag crack, first straight up then angling right and finally hand traverse left. At the end of the crack traverse a steep slab left towards a belay in the trees, bellow an overhang (5.7). Past the overhang following a hand crack and traverse a section with huge blocks, belay on a ledge on the right (5.7). Climb the straight hand crack above the ledge to a right facing corner, follow the corner to a belay in the trees (5.7). Traverse the trees to the left and climb a nice knoby face to other trees. From there you can continue climbing moderate slabs (and bush sections!) to the top or rappel down.

Location

From the lowest point of the cliff (bellow the ramp of the diagonal) follow the base of the cliff uphill to the left, past a huge dihedral then bellow an enormous detached flake and an obvious right facing corner. Behind the corner locate a slab with a single crack zigzagging.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

Norm Rasmussen
North Jersey
  5.7+
Norm Rasmussen   North Jersey
  5.7+
The approach from the Diagonal is steeper than it appears and there is no flat spot to sit comfortably or rest your bags (mine nearly slid back down the slope). We finally rested them on some bushes, but consider slinging a tree - especially if it's wet or with leaves.

Other than that, a fantastic crack climb on a "east coast alpine" wall. Worth doing if you're already there. Found protection closer to G. Oct 5, 2014