Type: Trad, 700 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Don Mellor & Ian Osteyee, 8/94
Page Views: 3,103 total · 26/month
Shared By: proto on May 28, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

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Climb the left side of an obvious mossy right facing corner to a good ledge with small trees (5.8). Climb the face above the ledge to the right until you reach the left edge of an obvious black streak. Then angle back left, past a bolt and continue up and left to belay high in the trees (5.7). Trend left in an obvious and easy corner, belay at a pine just at the base of a very clean dihedral (easy fifth class). Climb the dihedral up and then right to belay on a good stance (5.8). Climb the dihedral straight up, past small pine and then angle right when the crack disappear. Face climb right on small knobs to easier terrain (crux, 5.9, almost run out). An easy long pitch leads to the top of the huge ramp of the diagonal. Belay at bolts on a very nice terrace (5.4). Traverse right and down following the grassy ledge, past a corner and belay on a good alcove with a tree. Climb up the very nice corner for 50' and belay to avoid rope drag (5.8). Finish up climbing directly the superb corner to its top, belay at bolts (5.8).
The last pitches after the top of the ramp corresponds to the end of the Diagonal route.


From the lowest point of the cliff, traverse right, past the base of the diagonal and locate an obvious mossy right facing corner with a good ledge on the left at its end.
To go down you can either bush walk north towards Indian pass (memorable and epic!) or rappel down.
The first two raps are bolted (top of the route and top of the huge ramp). Then rappel from sometimes small birch trees. The last rappel is 200' long and ends exactly at the base of the first pitch.


Standard rack. Bolted belay at the end of the huge ramp and at the top of the route.


Adam Hammershoi
Hartford, CT
Adam Hammershoi   Hartford, CT
Is it possible to rap down from the first pitch? Thinking of doing that to warm up for Free Ride Sep 10, 2018
Falmouth (MA)
proto   Falmouth (MA)
Adam, as far as I can remember there is no rap anchor of any kind atop the first pitch. There are some small trees on that ledge so that could be an option but my memory is fading as to how good these trees are. Otherwise I think if you went to the top of the second pitch you could traverse climbers right and reach the top of the last rap. Hope this helps! Sep 14, 2018