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Routes in Wallface

Case Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Diagonal, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Ride T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lewis Elijah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Mental Blocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1
Mission to Mars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Man's a Pilot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
Out with the boys again T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pay As You Go T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Prelude to Gravity T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mr Case and friends 1933
Page Views: 2,625 total, 70/month
Shared By: Ian Dibbs on Oct 28, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

An "easy way up" the central depression of Wallface. A combination of; scrambling, you choose when to rope up, tree island linking, climbing, then getting back down.
Given highest grade because of the greatness of the "sum of the parts" .. a true wilderness climbing experience with a little bit of everything, good and bad.

Location

Central depression ...as usual check Adirondack Rock Guide for the best pictures and info. The route can be seen wonderfully from the hiking trail and you can easily trace the route up. The route zigzags upwards the right side of the central depression through the tress following your own route of least resistant before becoming a rock climb.

From the hiking trail (ADK #125) you need to cut into and upwards to reach the starting point, which is the high point of the central depression, underneath slabby 5.0- 5.2 climbing. Supposedly a trail exists up, my group looking hard but saw no obvious trail (Sept 2014), so we had a very ugly bushwhack. Coming down later we saw a trail (or watercourse ?) for the first top 1/3, then then remaining trail just disappeared into an ugly down bushwhack.. Expect 30-60 minutes to get up from the trail, it's super slow going up due to all the precariously balanced loose rocks. There is a camping site off of the main trail on the flat area and there is a small stream right there. I had heard rumours of a lean-to at Wallface but there wasn't by the Case Route. Just the very suitable campsite.

The route start should be obvious when there, you are at the high point with the big bulge easy to see 75 ft above and to the 75 ft right. The base is spacious, grassy and scenic, there was almost no signs of "trail wear" in September, I suspect ascents are rare..... shame due to the; often repeated "tranquility and big feel of Wallface"

Protection

Trad, rock and the trees can be used, as expected lots of 4 ft slings.
Protection is a personal experience for much of the route. Use or don't use to your own comfort level ... experienced persons have been known solo the route.
Ian Dibbs  
 
An experience most of us hope to avoid... I thought that "sh*t" was only supposed to happen at Cannon ... May 29, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Beware the easy move on what looks like sound rock. This route (or something close by) is one of the places that I nearly died. I was about to step on a solid looking horn, which also happened to be part of the belay, when I figured it would be good to put something in. I did, and a moment later I was eyeball to eyeball with my belayer, counter-balancing each other off the #7 Stopper I'd placed a moment before. The horn had broken when I stepped on it. Yet I had tested it well (I thought) before incorporating it as part of the belay. May 24, 2017
Ian Dibbs  
 
Last weekend (April 10 2017) there was still lots of snow up high on the mountains, and lots of run-off lower down. Me and friend hope to return to Case Route early this summer to try to find, and photograph the entire route ... we'll post on "partners" when we'll try, and invite any/all who wish to join us for some Case Route adventure/ fun. Apr 17, 2017
Danick Leduc
Montreal
Danick Leduc   Montreal
Looking forward to climb this route next week-end, anyone did it at this time of the year ? Wont be briging crampons and ice axe, doable or not ?
Thanks !! Apr 8, 2017