Type: Sport, Aid, 270 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Patrick Purcell/Don Mellor/Dominic Eisinger
Page Views: 3,604 total · 26/month
Shared By: Rafiki on Jun 25, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

A slightly overhanging line on one of the Adirondacks's most impressive faces. The 1st pitch is pumpy climbing on good holds. The underclinging 2nd pitch with insecure smears will test your forearms and endurance.

Location

To the right of Chronic Fixation, starts on top of a small ledge. Climbs horizontals up and left, then back right to the anchors below the obvious diagonal black roof. Climb out the roof to another fixed anchor. Rap to the ground with 2 60m, or rap to the pitch 1 anchor, then to the ground.

If you want to continue on, there are two pitches above.

Pitch 3:
Aid out the arching roof via a nice bolt ladder, until it is possible to move right to a spacious ledge (The King's Couch). Although this pitch is short (20 feet), it is often wet. (A0)

Pitch 4: ("Clipping in Space")
Move up left to a nice horizontal relief, then back tackle the 12a boulder problem. Once you've mastered that, move up the left-facing crescent to a slabby exit over a bulge. End at a fixed anchor on a balanced block. (5.12a / 90')

Protection

Bolted, clean falls. There's new anchors at the top of pitch 1..the anchors on the right.

Photos

Lucas
Asheville, NC
 
Lucas   Asheville, NC
 
The first 2 pitches of this route, (and it's neighboring routes on each side), remain dry even if it's been raining for several days....or is currently raining. Make sure to get on pitch 2....the position is AMAZING! Climbs more like a trad route than a sport climb. Sep 13, 2014
Andre Dahlman
Washington DC
 
Andre Dahlman   Washington DC
 
Great route - very unique second pitch. May 26, 2015
Jim Lawyer    
 
If it's raining, P2 will fill your chalk bag with water :-) Sep 30, 2015