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Areas in Adirondack Ice & Mixed

A: Northeast 7 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 15 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 15
B: Climbs near Lake Placid 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 4
C: Northwest 3 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 10
D: Keene Valley and Chapel Pond 30 / 1 / 8 / 0 / 93 / 0 / 37 / 0 / 111
E: Interior High Peaks 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
F: The Central Region 18 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 66 / 0 / 18 / 0 / 69
G: The Southern Region 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 18
Elevation: 2,910 ft
GPS: 43.938, -74.378 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 210,391 total · 1,784/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Mar 9, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer
Getting weather forecast...

Description

This section is dedicated to all those demented fanatics that call whacking sharp, pointy things into frozen icicles a worthy endeavor.

Ice climbing in the Adirondacks is as solitary an experience as its rock climbing counterpart. The routes range in character from solitarty drip lines to chandaliered waterfall ice. From Poke-O's long, heady smearfests, to the fat plastic ice of Chapel Pond Gully, the Adirondacks house some of the East's finest ice escapes. If you come with an open mind, a sense of adventure, and a penchant for adverse conditions, you won't be disappointed.

The ice climbing descriptions have been organized into subareas to match the chapters in the local guidebook Blue Lines 2 as follows:

A: Northeast
B: Climbs near Lake Placid
C: Northwest
D: Keene Valley and Chapel Pond
E: Interior High Peaks
F: The Central Region
G: The Southern Region

(Yes, this is a little confusing in that the organization differs from that used to organize the rock climbing routes. This organization mimics that of the local ice climbing guidebook. Click here to see a google map showing the Blue Lines 2 climbing areas and how they are subdivided.)

Getting There

The Dacks are big, REAL BIG, and can be accessed from various points in New England and from the flatlands below us.

If you are coming from the south, Interstate 87 (The New York Thruway) will deposit you in the Park.

Traveling from the east, there are several ways, all of which offer similar travel time, that get you there. The Charlotte, VT Ferry; The Burlington, VT Ferry; and the Grand Isle, VT Ferry all drop you off along the eastern side of the Adirondack Park, although in the middle of winter, the ferries typically do not run. You can always cross at Crown Point. Once across Lake Champlain, find your way to your specific areas. The Route 73 corridor through Chapel Pond and Cascade Pass is the most popular.

From the west, travelers can take Route 3, 28, or 8 depending on the destination you wish to visit.

At this point you should refer to the detailed descriptions for each area.

251 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Adirondack Ice & Mixed

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
 69
Multiplication Gully
Ice 3 pitches
WI4-5
 20
Power Play
Ice 3 pitches
WI4
 47
Hot Shot
Ice
WI4
 39
Central Pillar of Pitchoff
Ice
WI3+
 40
Arm & Hammer
Ice
WI3+
 72
Roaring Brook Falls
Ice 3 pitches
WI5-
 28
Positive Thinking
Ice
WI4
 65
Crystal Ice Tower
Ice
WI4-
 50
Lions on the Beach
Ice
WI3-4
 56
Positive Reinforcement
Ice
WI4-5
 33
Pitchoff Quarry
Trad, TR, Ice
WI3
 121
Chouinard's Gully
Ice 2 pitches
WI4-
 35
Ice Slot
Ice
WI2+
 44
The Cascade
Ice 3 pitches
WI2 Easy Snow
 41
The Trap Dike
Ice, Snow 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Multiplication Gully B: Climbs near… > Wilmington Notch - Hi…
 69
WI3+ Ice 3 pitches
Power Play D: Keene Valley… > Chapel Pond
 20
WI4-5 Ice 3 pitches
Hot Shot D: Keene Valley… > Chapel Pond Canyon
 47
WI4 Ice
Central Pillar of Pitchoff D: Keene Valley… > N Face of Pitchoff
 39
WI4 Ice
Arm & Hammer D: Keene Valley… > N Face of Pitchoff
 40
WI3+ Ice
Roaring Brook Falls D: Keene Valley… > Giant Mtn
 72
WI3+ Ice 3 pitches
Positive Thinking A: Northeast > Poke-O-Moonshine
 28
WI5- Ice
Crystal Ice Tower D: Keene Valley… > Chapel Pond
 65
WI4 Ice
Lions on the Beach D: Keene Valley… > Chapel Pond Canyon
 50
WI4- Ice
Positive Reinforcement D: Keene Valley… > Chapel Pond Canyon
 56
WI3-4 Ice
Pitchoff Quarry D: Keene Valley… > Cascade Pass
 33
WI4-5 Trad, TR, Ice
Chouinard's Gully D: Keene Valley… > Chapel Pond
 121
WI3 Ice 2 pitches
Ice Slot D: Keene Valley… > Chapel Pond Canyon
 35
WI4- Ice
The Cascade D: Keene Valley… > Cascade Pass
 44
WI2+ Ice 3 pitches
The Trap Dike E: Interior Hig… > Avalanche Lake/Pass
 41
WI2 Easy Snow Ice, Snow 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Adirondack Ice & Mixed »

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Photos

A lot of Adk Ice climbing is anything but solitary, at least on weekends and holidays. Chouinard's Gully, despite having three variations to choose from, is generally queued up from about 9am until dark. Same with Roaring Brook Falls, Multiplication Gully, and most of the fast-access ice along Cascade Pass. A couple of these become hazardous as parties ascend and rappel around each other, mostly because ice chunks channel down the climbing path.
Of course, there is a lot of ice far enough off the beaten track to spend a lifetime whackin'. If the classics are crowded, take a look at some of the farther-flung flows. Just bring snowshoes for the approach! Jan 9, 2010
Blue Lines 2 is out! In the intro Don says that this will be his last book, so I'm not sure who'll be collecting new route info from here on. Jan 18, 2017
Jim Lawyer    
"Blue Lines 2" can be purchased from The Mountaineer in Keene Valley. Jan 19, 2017

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