Elevation: 145 ft
GPS: 40.85, -72.959 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 39,800 total · 1,938/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Nov 22, 2018
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Description

Located in southeastern New York State, Long Island is the longest and largest island in the contiguous United States. Given its generally flat topography, Long Island would not readily come to mind as offering any climbing opportunities. However, Long Island is the product of two glacial moraines. The glaciers that formed these moraines carried large boulders from New England and deposited them as they receded. Fortunately, these boulders were left exposed in various spots throughout the island and provide quality bouldering opportunities for a small, but passionate climbing community.

Bouldering areas can be found widely distributed across Long Island, from as far west as Manhasset (Shelter Rock) to the easternmost reaches of the North Fork (East Marion). While none of these areas will ever be a destination, they offer a decent quantity of climbs on usually very high quality rock in frequently highly aesthetic locations. It's pretty hard to track down accurate names and first ascent info for all the climbs, though the vast majority of climbs were developed by a small, but highly motivated crew from Island Rock back in the day lead by Jack Delarusso? (I know my spelling is probably wrong, so please give me the correct info) and Chris Ortiz.

A few special considerations:
-Several of the areas are affected by tides and may not be climbable during high tides.
-Long Island is known for its abundance of ticks, particularly Deer Ticks (which carry Lyme Disease), so take precautions when out in the woods.
-Several areas may be on private property or are accessed through private property. (It's hard to know with the coastal areas.) So, please be respectful and keep a low profile.
-Treat these areas with respect. Brush your chalk and ticks. Clean up after yourself and pack out any litter you might see.
-Everything you climb/find has almost certainly been climbed before. There are only a few potential FAs left and those are in the v11 and up category.

Getting There

Most of the areas are found along the northern portion of Suffolk County, which occupies the eastern part of Long Island. Click on the individual areas for specific directions to each bouldering location.

52 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Long Island

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0-1 4+
 5
Bo-Jangle
Boulder
V1 5
 3
South West Overhang
Boulder
V1+ 5
 3
Broken Glass
Boulder
V1+ 5
 5
The Crescent
Boulder
V2- 5+
 6
Do It Sideways
Boulder
V2 5+
 4
Golden
Boulder
V3 6A
 4
Shine Box
Boulder
V3 6A
 9
Earl’s Way
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 4
South West Overhang
Boulder
V4 6B
 5
1-2 Mantle
Boulder
V4 6B R
 5
Little Horn / Big Horn
Boulder
V4 6B
 3
Spitshine Tommy
Boulder
V6 7A
 3
Hillside Strangler
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bo-Jangle E Marion Boulders > Big Boy Boulder
 5
V0-1 4+ Boulder
South West Overhang Split Rock > Southern Boulder
 3
V1 5 Boulder
Broken Glass Split Rock > Southern Boulder
 3
V1+ 5 Boulder
The Crescent Wildwood SP > Bluff Boulders
 5
V1+ 5 Boulder
Do It Sideways E Marion Boulders > Big Boy Boulder
 6
V2- 5+ Boulder
Golden Duck Pond Point… > Golden Boulder
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
Shine Box Split Rock > Southern Boulder
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Earl’s Way E Marion Boulders > Big Boy Boulder
 9
V3 6A Boulder
South West Overhang Split Rock > High Ball Boulder
 4
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
1-2 Mantle E Marion Boulders > Little Boy Boulder
 5
V4 6B Boulder
Little Horn / Big Horn Split Rock > High Ball Boulder
 5
V4 6B R Boulder
Spitshine Tommy Split Rock > Southern Boulder
 3
V4 6B Boulder
Hillside Strangler Wildwood SP > Bluff Boulders
 3
V6 7A Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Long Island »

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