Type: Trad, 195 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Beckett Howorth, George Temple, 1942
Page Views: 44,008 total · 251/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 22, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Gelsa is THE classic 5.4 route in the Gunks. The third-pitch corner is steep, exposed, and fun! Don't pass this one up, even if you're climbing at a harder grade.

Start by a tree growing out and up from the base of the cliff (see first picture below), about 20' left of Fat City Direct, at a pile of boulders below a blocky crack.

P1: Climb the blocky crack up to an overhang at ~20 ft, and continue no further upwards! Instead, traverse left to a ledge and belay by a tree. 5.3, 45'.

P2: Continue traversing left (var) past an overhang and into an alcove (you'll be just above the bolts for Roseland), then back up right to a crack and a face. Angle up left to a good ledge/alcove at the base of a huge, overhanging, right-facing corner, and make a belay on smaller gear here. 5.4, 60'.

Var: You can also diagonal up and left to the next belay, instead of traversing directly left. You'll end up climbing a slab towards the belay alcove at 5.6 or so.

P3: The money pitch. Climb up right and up (or, up and right - either way works) and follow the steep, exposed corner to the top. 5.4, 90'.

Walk off to climbers' right, and look for an easy scramble back to the cliff base just before you reach the road.

Protection

Standard Rack. Pink and red Tricams are useful for the belay anchor at the end of the second pitch. A #3 Camalot is useful on the third pitch.

Photos