Type: Trad, 195 ft (59 m), 3 pitches
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Beckett Howorth, George Temple, 1942
Page Views: 50,470 total · 245/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, RJ B

You & This Route


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Description

Gelsa is THE classic 5.4 route in the Gunks. The third-pitch corner is steep, exposed, and fun! Don't pass this one up, even if you're climbing at a harder grade.

Start by a tree growing out and up from the base of the cliff (see first picture below), about 20' left of Fat City Direct, at a pile of boulders below a blocky crack.

P1: Climb the blocky crack up to an overhang at ~20 ft, and continue no further upwards! Instead, traverse left to a ledge and belay by a tree. 5.3, 45'.

P2: Continue traversing left (var) past an overhang and into an alcove (you'll be just above the bolts for Roseland), then back up right to a crack and a face. Angle up left to a good ledge/alcove at the base of a huge, overhanging, right-facing corner, and make a belay on smaller gear here. 5.4, 60'.

Var: You can also diagonal up and left to the next belay, instead of traversing directly left. You'll end up climbing a slab towards the belay alcove at 5.6 or so.

P3: The money pitch. Climb up right and up (or, up and right - either way works) and follow the steep, exposed corner to the top. 5.4, 90'.

Descent: Walk off to climbers' right, and look for an easy scramble back to the cliff base just before you reach the road. There are rap rings on a tree, but only use these if you have two ropes, ~120 m total. There is no intermediate rap station.

Protection

Standard Rack. Pink and red Tricams are useful for the belay anchor at the end of the second pitch. A #3 Camalot is useful on the third pitch.

Photos