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Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Criss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disney Point T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kansas City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sling Time T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squat thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A4-5 X
Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Todd Swain and Mark Wallace, 1986
Page Views: 796 total, 11/month
Shared By: akline on Feb 29, 2012
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Start in a chimney formed by the right side of a huge block leaning against the cliff; the same as Dog-Stick-Ridge link-up. Climb the chimney to a ledge, then traverse out right through an open book/ finger crack. At the end of the crack, traverse left under the roof, then fire straight up the face.

Location

About 15 feet right of Baskerville Terrace, at a large block leaning against the wall that forms a right-facing chimney.

Protection

Initially the pro is good, but in the crux you are clipping old, bad pitons that are half-out. Just before the crux and just after the crux you get bomber gear, but after that gear there is not much until you get to the communal anchor.

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BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
 
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
 
If you are uneasy clipping the old pin on the bouldery crux, it is easy to set up a TR by the old rap station Mar 12, 2012