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Fat City Direct Direct
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Between the Lines T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Bold is Beautiful T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bumkey T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Choad Warrior T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Close Encounters of the 5th Class Kind T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Criss T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Diamond In The Rough T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Diamond in the Rough Direct T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X |
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Disney Point T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Eighth Wonder of the World T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Fat City Direct Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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G-String T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Generation Gap T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Iron Cross T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Kansas City T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Le Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Outer Space Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Penn Station T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Sling Time T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Squat Thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Taste of Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Totally Crass T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Underbelly T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wichita T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| GPS: | 41.73517, -74.19463 |
| FA: | Cody Sims and Joe Frankel 2005 |
| Page Views: | 147 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | akline on May 21, 2024 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Description
This a route recently (2024) saw an upgrade of old fixed hardware and was unearthed from the sands of time, and good thing because it is FANTASTIC! In the old Grey Dick guidebook it describes a Variation 3 to Fat City Direct, which finishes the last pitch going up through the huge roofs to the left after the pitch 2 crux traverse. This is different from normal FCD in that you exit left after the p2 crux instead of going right and exiting on 5.8 terrain.
After the FCD p2 crux traverse, when you are standing on the rest nose, you move up and left, aiming for a newly replaced Glue-in Bolt. The original bolt is still there as a relic from the FA of p2 of Land of the Giants(which is a death-block laden piece of junk). From the bolt go strait up towards the looming roofs and a welcome no hands rest. After plugging some gear, climb through moderate roofs on great holds, and clipping a couple pins, until you find yourself at the crux. Bust out the final few moves and enjoy the best jug of your life, on the lip of the wall(!!!), rock over the lip and you're standing on the top. Wild.
The absolute best is to do it from the ground in one pitch!! Bring 48" runners for this.
1 Comment