Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m)
FA: Cody Sims and Joe Frankel 2005
Page Views: 53 total · 52/month
Shared By: akline on May 21, 2024
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This a route recently  (2024) saw an upgrade of old fixed hardware and was unearthed from the sands of time, and good thing because it is FANTASTIC! In the old Grey Dick guidebook it describes a Variation 3 to Fat City Direct, which finishes the last pitch going up through the huge roofs to the left after the pitch 2 crux traverse. This is different from normal FCD in that you exit left after the p2 crux instead of going right and exiting on 5.8 terrain. 

After the FCD p2 crux traverse, when you are standing on the rest nose, you move up and left, aiming for a newly replaced Glue-in Bolt. The original bolt is still there as a relic from the FA of p2 of Land of the Giants(which is a death-block laden piece of junk). From the bolt go strait up towards the looming roofs and a welcome no hands rest. After plugging some gear, climb through moderate roofs on great holds, and clipping a couple pins, until you find yourself at the crux. Bust out the final few moves and enjoy the best jug of your life, on the lip of the wall(!!!), rock over the lip and you're standing on the top. Wild. 

The absolute best is to do it from the ground in one pitch!! Bring 48" runners for this. 

Location Suggest change

Climb Fat City Direct until you are standing at the good stance after the P2 crux, and then head up and left. 

Protection Suggest change

great gear, bolt, pins, etc.