Avg: 2.7 from 142 votes
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott, 1949. FFA: Art Gran, 1958|
|Page Views:||5,749 total · 30/month|
|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Start just right of Inverted Layback at a 6"-wide crack on the left wall of a big dihedral. This is about 55' left of Disneyland.
P1: Climb the face by the crack for 25' (V1). When the crack flares, traverse up and right to an arete. Move right and up (crux) to small stance and a tree (optional belay) in a clean dihedral. From here, climb up and right, turning an easy roof on the right, and continue to the top. 5.7, 120'.
V1: The climb can also be started on the right wall of the initial corner, bypassing the wide crack.
Descend by an easy stroll, climber's right, back to the base.