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Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Criss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disney Point T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kansas City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sling Time T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squat thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A4-5 X
Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott, 1949. FFA: Art Gran, 1958
Page Views: 4,160 total, 29/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


102 Opinions

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Description

An interesting route with several variations. It is often described in 2 pitches, but it's much simpler to climb to the clifftop in one pitch.

Start just right of Inverted Layback at a 6"-wide crack on the left wall of a big dihedral. This is about 55' left of Disneyland.

P1: Climb the face by the crack for 25' (V1). When the crack flares, traverse up and right to an arete. Move right and up (crux) to small stance and a tree (optional belay) in a clean dihedral. From here, climb up and right, turning an easy roof on the right, and continue to the top. 5.7, 120'.

V1: The climb can also be started on the right wall of the initial corner, bypassing the wide crack.

Descend by an easy stroll, climber's right, back to the base.

Protection

Standard Rack, with optional larger (3-4") pieces.
Definitely skip the small, dead/dying tree, regardless of whether it's backed up with a nut/tricam.
Do it in one, or if you absolutely have to, build an ultra bomber gear anchor in the hand crack above the dead tree.
The moves around the nose are fun, with a great view. May 1, 2016
Systematic
  5.7 PG13
Systematic  
  5.7 PG13
A bunch of really good climbing on really suspect rock. Builds up in difficulty but even the easy parts moved really well. I started on the right side and climbed past a couple pins to get to the crack on the right face.

Definitely link the pitches. The tree is not fit for anchor duties and does not have webbing on it as of 10.22.15. Oct 22, 2015
daisy s
New York, NY
daisy s   New York, NY
Fixed anchor at the tree was there as of 9/23/15. It was a 3" tree backed up with a pink tricam that came apart when I looked at it. It's now a 3" tree backed up with a #8 nut, which I miss already. If I had been smarter, I would have skipped that belay entirely. The climb is really nice and interesting, though. Sep 24, 2015
There's no fixed anchor at the tree any more. Probably a good thing all around. Jul 23, 2014
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
  5.7
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
  5.7
the crux stays pretty dry in the rain May 27, 2014
kenr  
Lots of interesting climbing at the 6 and 7 level, with some thoughtful moves not typical for Gunks face climbing, one sequence pretty exciting. Pro not always easy to place, so good to have some previous experience with Gunks leading. Normally I'm a strong advocate of double-ropes, but in this case the diagonal line doesn't have many "bends" in it, seemed to go pretty well with a single rope. Apr 11, 2013
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.7+
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.7+
Definitely combine the pitches. No need to do it as 2, the second pitch is relatively easy and short. Doubles help but aren't necessary. Just extend your runners at the crux and in the corner before you do the traverse and you should be fine. Oh, and a great climb! Solid 30 feet of sustained and varying 5.7 climbing, with the remainder of the climb being easier (5.5-ish) but equally interesting. Mar 7, 2012
Matt Perkins
Seattle, Washington
Matt Perkins   Seattle, Washington
The tree belay mentioned in above posts is very definitely uncomfortable. If you want to set up a belay, it is much better to establish your own anchors 5 feet above. You are still hanging but it is much more comfortable.

That traverse on the "second" pitch is good fun! May 17, 2011
Optimistic
New Paltz
 
Optimistic   New Paltz
 
Really nice route. Definitely linking the two pitches is the way to go. Don't rap or TR off the tree at the first belay, it has enough problems without adding your weight to the list. Sep 16, 2010
Michael G  
 
I climbed this in two pitches two days ago, and was able to backup the resident webbing (tree and fixed tricam) with three cams.

Everyone should try to listen to the advice Williams gives in his guidebooks and consider trees off-route. Breaking a limb off a tree can easily have negative consequences for it's life span down the road. Jul 20, 2009
Jim O'Brien
Branford, CT
 
Jim O'Brien   Branford, CT
 
Good 1st pitch- crux was not too bad, a quick nut placement calmed me down... The belay station sucked- bail here and belay your second from the ground or continue up the blocky dihedrial. May 4, 2009
losbill
  5.7
losbill  
  5.7
I agree. The belay is a pain with your second tied in below you since the corner is pretty narrow. Do it in one pitch. Also back up any fixed gear. The pins, if they are still there, were not good three years ago. Mar 21, 2009
tuscanes
rosendale, ny
  5.7+
tuscanes   rosendale, ny
  5.7+
Avoid the belay. Do it in one pitch. Mar 15, 2009
Spiro
  5.7
Spiro  
  5.7
great climb. belay was uncomfortable. Oct 18, 2008