Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FFA: Jim McCarthy 1961
Page Views: 2,923 total · 24/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Dec 26, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

58 Opinions

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Pitch 1: Climb up to the small overhang and move around left (awkward); or climb the slab on left up to this point (less protected). Continue up into a small left facing corner. When the corner becomes right-facing move right to a crack (crux) and cruise up into an awesome open book with a small ledge.

Pitch 2: Climb the cracks in the right wall. Step right then back left and up to move overhangs. Then traverse far right and follow dirty corner to the top. This pitch is only 5.5 but is very exciting. There is a lot of traversing, so try to avoid placing too much gear and use long slings.


Starts about 20 feet right of Fat City and 40 feet right of Gelsa, at a shallow groove capped by an overhang about 15 feet up.

There are no anchors; you will need to walk off to the right, scrambling easily down to the base just before the road.


SR and long slings.


Spiro Spiro
  5.7 PG13
Spiro Spiro  
  5.7 PG13
great first pitch, thoughtful and fun moves. Jul 6, 2009
Jersey City, NJ
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
I thought the first pitch was PG. If you don't feel like the second pitch, you can also TR the first pitch of The Hounds by building an anchor by the rap station the top of the first pitch (or possibly half way up the second pitch depending on how you break it up). Nov 22, 2010
I only did Pitch 1 and linked to P3 of Yellow Ridge. I'd like to get back on this climb and find the 5.7 moves of the crux - it was damn hard I thought! Gear, like a friend put eloquently, is "creative". May 18, 2011
Fort Collins, CO
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
IMHO the P1 crux () was pretty darn stiff for 5.7. Fell on a gold BD nut (it's still there). Was glad I took the time to place it well. Second attempt I went up on the right side which seemed easier. Jul 20, 2014
San Pedro, California
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
Lots of micro nuts and small cams are pretty essential for this. Ive never contemplated a 5.7 move for so long....maybe any move. The climbing at the crux is very thin and balancy. I think the fact that its over quickly kèeps it at 7. I like the technical non pumpy stuff...can be hard to find in these parts. Nov 10, 2014
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
A classic climb when linked with the yellow ridge. Aug 6, 2015
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Nice sequence of thin/slabby problems for the P1 leader. The rest of the climb is boring- Do the link up to Yellow Ridge finish. May 31, 2017