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Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Criss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disney Point T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kansas City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sling Time T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squat thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A4-5 X
Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FFA: Jim McCarthy 1961
Page Views: 2,705 total, 25/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Dec 26, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1: Climb up to the small overhang and move around left (awkward); or climb the slab on left up to this point (less protected). Continue up into a small left facing corner. When the corner becomes right-facing move right to a crack (crux) and cruise up into an awesome open book with a small ledge.

Pitch 2: Climb the cracks in the right wall. Step right then back left and up to move overhangs. Then traverse far right and follow dirty corner to the top. This pitch is only 5.5 but is very exciting. There is a lot of traversing, so try to avoid placing too much gear and use long slings.

Location

Starts about 20 feet right of Fat City and 40 feet right of Gelsa, at a shallow groove capped by an overhang about 15 feet up.

There are no anchors; you will need to walk off to the right, scrambling easily down to the base just before the road.

Protection

SR and long slings.
Nice sequence of thin/slabby problems for the P1 leader. The rest of the climb is boring- Do the link up to Yellow Ridge finish. May 31, 2017
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
 
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
 
A classic climb when linked with the yellow ridge. Aug 6, 2015
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
Lots of micro nuts and small cams are pretty essential for this. Ive never contemplated a 5.7 move for so long....maybe any move. The climbing at the crux is very thin and balancy. I think the fact that its over quickly kèeps it at 7. I like the technical non pumpy stuff...can be hard to find in these parts. Nov 10, 2014
Kurtz  
IMHO the P1 crux () was pretty darn stiff for 5.7. Fell on a gold BD nut (it's still there). Was glad I took the time to place it well. Second attempt I went up on the right side which seemed easier. Jul 20, 2014
doligo
 
doligo  
 
I only did Pitch 1 and linked to P3 of Yellow Ridge. I'd like to get back on this climb and find the 5.7 moves of the crux - it was damn hard I thought! Gear, like a friend put eloquently, is "creative". May 18, 2011
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
  5.7
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
  5.7
I thought the first pitch was PG. If you don't feel like the second pitch, you can also TR the first pitch of The Hounds by building an anchor by the rap station the top of the first pitch (or possibly half way up the second pitch depending on how you break it up). Nov 22, 2010
Spiro
  5.7 PG13
Spiro  
  5.7 PG13
great first pitch, thoughtful and fun moves. Jul 6, 2009