Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Fritz Wiessner, George Temple, 1941
Page Views: 10,004 total · 64/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


139 Opinions

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Description

A fun route that will test your chimney and layback technique.

Start about 10' left of Inverted Layback at a left-facing chimney/corner with a big chockstone about 15' up. This is about 75' left of Disneyland.

P1: Struggle to the top of the chockstone, climb up to the corner, and layback (what else?) up to a good belay ledge with a fixed anchor (slings and rings). 5.5, 60'.

P2: Climb up right to the airy arete, pass an overhang, and continue to the top. 5.4, 60'.

The climb can be done in one pitch without too much rope drag. To descend, walk climbers' right along the clifftop until it is possible, just before the road, to easily scramble down to the base.

Protection

Standard Rack to #4 Camalot.
Taino Grosjean
South Salem, NY
 
Taino Grosjean   South Salem, NY
 
I've found that a #3.5 Camalot (no longer made) or a #4 Camalot is very helpful on the opening moves of the layback section. You can't place it from the good stance below the crux, but you take a step or two up (before being completely committed) and there's a good constriction. My #4 caught a friend's lead fall in that spot. Feb 13, 2007
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.6
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.6
I thoroughly enjoyed the second pitch, excellent exposed climbing with good pro. Consider it a well-deserved reward after the unpleasant grunting that's necessary to get through the first pitch. Jul 18, 2008
losbill
  5.5
losbill  
  5.5
P1 is a good, interesting challenge for the 5.5 leader. Chimney can be avoided by bouldery (spot), 5.7+ start up nose/face to left of the chimney. P2 (5.3/G) is awesome for a beginning leader; beautiful rock, great exposure and a fantastic photo op. Dec 29, 2008
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Ummm...I don't think I would put a beginning 5.5 leader on this climb. We did the unprotected bouldery start and it was a LONG way up before hitting the pin. I didn't try the chimney, it was green and slimy. Either way p1 is committing for a 5.5 leader. May 2, 2010
losbill
  5.5
losbill  
  5.5
Gail --- Didn't mean to imply P1 is for a new 5.5 leader. Indicated it would be a challenge for a 5.5 leader. P2 I do believe is a great pitch for a beginning leader. Good gear and a lot of bang for your buck in terms of the quality of the climbing and the exposure. --- bill May 3, 2010
Larry S
Easton, PA
 
Larry S   Easton, PA
 
The opening chimney is an awkward gruntfest, even after 5 or 6 sends of this route; but with a good spot it's safe, and you can get a #2 camalot to protect well on either side of the chockstone. Recommend a #4 to protect the start of the layback unless you're very confident (it is a cruiser, but there's no gear till the layback's over). You can funk in medium nut below the #4, but it's questionable IMO. Jun 29, 2010
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.6
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.6
Did this weeks ago. Climbed the face right of the chimney to a small roof and piton, then traversed right to join Layback at the top of the chimney. Face climb was stiff (was told 5.8-ish) but I dislike (crappy) chimneys more than sweating a little extra at the start of a climb. The rest of the route was enjoyable. I though the layback was stiffer than 5.5. Very sustained. The second pitch was fun, the traverse/exposure seems to be a repeating them on this side of the road (ie - Disneyland). Sep 4, 2010
Optimistic
New Paltz
 
Optimistic   New Paltz
 
I second (fourth?) all the comments about the big gear. You'll definitely find spots where you'll be relieved to have it. Sep 16, 2010
steve richert
Taunton MA
steve richert   Taunton MA
I climbed this on memorial day, and it was pretty moist in the chimney--I hope to try running up the face as an alternative next time, since that chimney seems difficult to climb gracefully! The layback section above is all there, but much trickier without some wide gear, as has been mentioned here. I found myself up a creek without a #3 or 4 Camalot, and there was some definite pucker factor. If you are long enough to cheat out to the left of the crack, it is possible to get a nut (and/or) a black alien-sized piece that will offer some protection through the layback. P2 is the gravy though--superb views and fun moves and a nice BIG belay ledge! May 31, 2011
Galen Rahmlow
Woodbury, MN
 
Galen Rahmlow   Woodbury, MN
 
Great climb. The second pitch is not a 5.1 IMO more like a 5.3, it has an exposed finish that seems a little steep for the lower rating. I've managed, and felt fine, with a standard rack up to a #3 cam. I can't recall how I placed the pieces specifically, a larger would have been nice but not a requirement. Apr 30, 2012
A number 4 C4 will protect the opening sequence of the layback (my climber was also able toplace a red C3) but once you are into it is hard to place gear and the gear appears to be in the number 5 range. If you unable to place gear after the start of the layback then it is very run out in my opinion. Jul 2, 2012
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
 
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
 
#4 for the start of the offwidth felt like a key placement to prevent it from being pretty runout. Initial chimney was really awkward for me. Definitely a tough lead for 5.5. Second pitch is airy and worth doing. Probably about 5.3. Probably could link the pitches up if careful. Sep 5, 2012
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
Quite a lot going on. I enjoyed the chimney a lot more the second time around. Lots of variety and techniques to get up this line as a whole. Climb it as one pitch to appreciate the shifting of gears. Some giant loose stone (easily avoided) on the traverse after the layback section. Oct 9, 2012
Jon Booth
  5.5
Jon Booth  
  5.5
Interesting climb, there is alot of variety on this route. It will seem harder than a 5.5 if you're uncomfortable with laybacks or awkward chimneys. The guidebook lists P2 as 5.1, in my opinion it feels more like 5.3, with great protection & exposure. Sep 8, 2013
I watched a climber today do the layback section without laybacking. It was unreal. She just face climbed the wall immediately left of the layback crack/corner. As for the start, a very small wire can be placed about halfway up to the pin on the 5.7 face variation, and a 00 TCU or equivalent a couple feet higher. Jul 23, 2014
I never go in the chimney. Thin but easy climbing up the face/tiny crack to the left of the chimney, can fit a small nut in the crack, but almost not worth it because at that point, you're just about at the pin in the horizontal under the little overhang. The face goes at 5.6+/5.7- but you'd better be comfy soloing at that grade. After the pin, a big step right to get back on the route, not that had, but could be intimidating for the 5.5 leader. Then you're standing on the chockstone, and the step left and then up to climb at the crack I've seen people struggle on.

Love this climb the 2nd pitch is a great photo op (not 5.1, more like 5.3) with a fun overhang near the end.
My boyfriend just proposed to me on this climb yesterday by leaving notes at each piece of pro on the 2nd pitch and a diamond at the last piece of gear. Glad I didn't drop it! :-) Apr 15, 2018
naj1036  
I would like to reiterate what some others have said. Unless you feel very comfortable climbing this grade and above make sure you bring bring a #4. The crux lay back needs it or you have to do a pretty serious runout. Jul 17, 2018