Avg: 2.8 from 176 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Fritz Wiessner, George Temple, 1941|
|Page Views:||12,228 total · 65/month|
|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Start about 10' left of Inverted Layback at a left-facing chimney/corner with a big chockstone about 15' up. This is about 75' left of Disneyland.
P1: Struggle to the top of the chockstone, climb up to the corner, and layback (what else?) up to a good belay ledge with a fixed anchor (slings and rings). 5.5, 60'.
P2: Climb up right to the airy arete, pass an overhang, and continue to the top. 5.4, 60'.
The climb can be done in one pitch without too much rope drag. To descend, walk climbers' right along the clifftop until it is possible, just before the road, to easily scramble down to the base.