Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,350 total · 15/month
Shared By: Anthony Baraff on Aug 14, 2011
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This route is the link up of the start of G-String and the finish of Land of the Giants. It possesses quite a bit of climbing with several 5.7 cruxes after the initial 5.8 traverse crux. The route finding is a little bit tricky.

Walk up the ramp to the base of the flaring off-width. Climb up and right to a horizontal crack below an overhang. Traverse right about 5 feet to gain good hands. At this point the book says to climb up the slab before traversing 10-12 feet right at a large horizontal. (I, however, continued to traverse right before climbing the right facing Gelsa corner for 5 feet.) No matter which route you take, you will find yourself at the base of a crack with several horizontal holds to its right. Continue to climb this crack/weakness up. You will eventually arrive at a small left facing corner 5-7 feet tall. Climb this and move around up and right to the bolted Fat City Direct belay/rap-station. If you are using a 70m rope you can be lowered from here.

Location

The route starts 15 feet left of Gelsa on a rightward arching off-width at the top of a small ramp that rises from right to left.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack with some micro cams.

Photos

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Max S
Steamboat Springs, CO
  5.8+
Max S   Steamboat Springs, CO
  5.8+
This was an interesting climb, and I'm still not sure I did it quite right. The start is very cool, but I found the gear questionable to protect the moves going right below the overhang (the crux). Once right of the overhang, I went straight up a dirty face and then climbed the "small left facing corner 5-7 feet tall". The crack was a bit dirty but easily protected with a nut. Once at the top of this corner, you must traverse right for a couple feet before the climb links back up with Land of the Giants. There is a great horizontal crack for your hands on the traverse (though a bit dirty), but little to no feet. Jun 17, 2018