Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jeff Greunberg and Scott Franklin, 1985
Page Views: 2,556 total · 33/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on Oct 10, 2012
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


45 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

If no one is climbing Gelsa, definitely take the opportunity to get on this route -- it has a lot of pleasant climbing in 30m.

Start up Gelsa and instead of traversing left at the piton(s) 20' up, head straight up over a bulge at a right-leaning crack. Keep following the crack (carefully at first, there are some hollow blocks) up to an open book under orange rock, then step right onto a prominent nose. Climb up the crack above, then look for the bolted anchor on your right.

Location

Start as for Gelsa.

Protection

Gear is good. There is lots of gear in the fingers range, and a couple of pitons. There is a bolt anchor at the top (one 60m rope will do).

Photos

- No Photos -
Curt Dvonch
  5.7+
Curt Dvonch  
  5.7+
There is a big move to get past the thin crack above the piton. The lack of feet makes it difficult for anyone under 6' tall. Those 6' and taller will still find it spicy. Sep 8, 2013
kenr  
Climbed it yesterday, enjoyed it.
I'm much less than 6 feet tall, and just above the old piton did seem like the hardest move. But I did not find it to be a "big" move -- rather it took some clever footwork and balance. I'm sure that there's some human body height+reach below which the move is much harder, but I don't think 6 feet tall is where the divider comes. May 29, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I am 5'2" and lead this today. I think if you try and climb the flake there would be a BIG move. If you traverse right at the bottom of the flake and climb the face, there are plenty of holds all reasonably spaced. I enjoyed the moves up the corner above, look around and you can find a really easy way to ascend that corner. Anchor is up above and way to the right.

Climbed on doubles, 60M. Made it back to the ground with rope to spare. Aug 24, 2014
Dom R
Bend, OR
Dom R   Bend, OR
Really cool climbing in the corner up high. Kind of thuggish at the crack, i.e., poor feet with good hands. If only the roofs above were safer, it would make for another classic. Nov 24, 2014
MojoMonkey  
 
Great long pitch - only negative for me was the couple sections of loose rock. I think I remember a few spots of looser stuff, but mainly remember the couple of larger blocks maybe 30' from the top. Nice chance to get a close-up view of the tiered roof above! Jun 27, 2016
JSH

JSH    
I can see where the move at the initial crack would be much easier with a 6' reach, but one thrutchy-ish move with my reach (5'4") got it done. Sep 26, 2016
Danny
brooklyn, ny
Danny   brooklyn, ny
i thought the climbing on this was just fine. the only reason this route gets attention (or mine, at least) is because it has fixed anchors, is rated 5.7, and is near the road and beginning of the trail. in any other scenario i wouldn't go out of my way to climb it. Oct 8, 2017
Jay Stanley
Little Rock, AR
  5.7
Jay Stanley   Little Rock, AR
  5.7
I thought this route was awesome from beginning to end. The pro is good, but the route still felt a bit spicy, especially with some of the loose stuff you're climbing. Sep 3, 2018