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Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Criss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disney Point T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kansas City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sling Time T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squat thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A4-5 X
Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jeff Greunberg and Scott Franklin, 1985
Page Views: 2,047 total, 32/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on Oct 10, 2012
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

If no one is climbing Gelsa, definitely take the opportunity to get on this route -- it has a lot of pleasant climbing in 30m.

Start up Gelsa and instead of traversing left at the piton(s) 20' up, head straight up over a bulge at a right-leaning crack. Keep following the crack (carefully at first, there are some hollow blocks) up to an open book under orange rock, then step right onto a prominent nose. Climb up the crack above, then look for the bolted anchor on your right.

Location

Start as for Gelsa.

Protection

Gear is good. There is lots of gear in the fingers range, and a couple of pitons. There is a bolt anchor at the top (one 60m rope will do).

Photos

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Danny
brooklyn, ny
Danny   brooklyn, ny
i thought the climbing on this was just fine. the only reason this route gets attention (or mine, at least) is because it has fixed anchors, is rated 5.7, and is near the road and beginning of the trail. in any other scenario i wouldn't go out of my way to climb it. Oct 8, 2017
JSH

JSH    
I can see where the move at the initial crack would be much easier with a 6' reach, but one thrutchy-ish move with my reach (5'4") got it done. Sep 26, 2016
MojoMonkey  
 
Great long pitch - only negative for me was the couple sections of loose rock. I think I remember a few spots of looser stuff, but mainly remember the couple of larger blocks maybe 30' from the top. Nice chance to get a close-up view of the tiered roof above! Jun 27, 2016
Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
Really cool climbing in the corner up high. Kind of thuggish at the crack, i.e., poor feet with good hands. If only the roofs above were safer, it would make for another classic. Nov 24, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I am 5'2" and lead this today. I think if you try and climb the flake there would be a BIG move. If you traverse right at the bottom of the flake and climb the face, there are plenty of holds all reasonably spaced. I enjoyed the moves up the corner above, look around and you can find a really easy way to ascend that corner. Anchor is up above and way to the right.

Climbed on doubles, 60M. Made it back to the ground with rope to spare. Aug 24, 2014
kenr  
Climbed it yesterday, enjoyed it.
I'm much less than 6 feet tall, and just above the old piton did seem like the hardest move. But I did not find it to be a "big" move -- rather it took some clever footwork and balance. I'm sure that there's some human body height+reach below which the move is much harder, but I don't think 6 feet tall is where the divider comes. May 29, 2014
Curt Dvonch
  5.7+
Curt Dvonch  
  5.7+
There is a big move to get past the thin crack above the piton. The lack of feet makes it difficult for anyone under 6' tall. Those 6' and taller will still find it spicy. Sep 8, 2013