Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy, 1962
Page Views: 7,223 total · 41/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 7, 2006
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

One of the 5.8 testpieces of the Gunks: the "+" refers to the starting move (certainly harder than 5.8), and to the scary start of the 2nd pitch.

Although short, this climb is often done in 2 pitches to avoid rope drag.

This climb is easy to recognize - it is not far from where the trail brings you to the cliff, and is between the overhanging hand crack of Criss Cross Direct and the huge roof to the right of Disneyland. Broken Sling starts at a left-facing arete just under a right-facing corner and roof.

P1: Locate an obvious boulder problem just right of a low roof. A large jug about 10' up dares you to grab it. The moves up through this are surprisingly tricky - you're definitely risking a twisted ankle or worse. You can protect with a cam on the left (tough to place) or just go for it and place a piece from the big jug. Borrow a crash pad or bring a beefy spotter. Once your feet are on the jug all is well, but there's a lot more climbing ahead.

Above, move up to a small roof, turn it on the left, then climb up meandering towards a large alcove with a fixed anchor. Belay here to avoid rope drag. 5.8+, 75'.

P2: Climb out right of the alcove. A pin that once protected the traverse is gone now, so this part is hard to protect. You can make a long reach straight up if you're tall, or, as most people do, quake right, up, and left on minimal pro to easier ground. A bit more climbing leads to the top. 5.8 PG, 65'.

...More details on P2 from Kurtz: Belay on a small ledge 15 ft below the rap anchor (it's a better stance). The first moves up a hollow flake aren't hard or scary but the pro is suspect until you can sling the anchor webbing (V2). Traverse right (20+ ft) until you find enough holds to move up to the overhang. Then traverse all the way back left on good hands but minimal feet until you are beneath a weakness in the roof. Set a bomber piece here and go! Easier climbing above, to the clifftop.

V2: From the rap anchor at the start of P2, go straight up the flaring crack through an overhang (5.9+ PG). This avoids the traverses on the regular route.

Walk along the cliff to climbers' right, then before the road, scramble back down to the cliff base.

Protection

Standad Gunks rack to a #3 camalot. Some small stuff might help on P2.

Photos