Avg: 3.2 from 349 votes
|Type:||Trad, 155 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Dave Craft, Eric Stern, 1959|
|Page Views:||17,997 total · 102/month|
|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Feb 22, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Start about 30' left of Broken Sling, at a large open book capped by a roof. There is a big tree near the start of the climb.
P1: Climb up the right face of the open book, angling up and right across the many horizontals, past several old fixed pins. Make an awkward move around the nose to a cramped belay. 5.6, 45'.
P2: Move left and climb a steep corner to a roof, passing more old fixed pins. A second belay is optional here, or traverse right under the roof and continue to the top. 5.5, 110'.
Pitches 1 and 2 may be combined, avoiding the cramped belay, but it's quite difficult to avoid severe rope drag if you do this, especially the first time. Long runners, double ropes, and two-way radios are recommended if you want to do the climb in one pitch.
Walk climbers' right along the clifftop until just before the road, where you can easily scramble down to the base of the cliff and back to your packs.