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Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Between the Lines T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Bold is Beautiful T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bumkey T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Choad Warrior T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Close Encounters of the 5th Class Kind T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Criss T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Diamond In The Rough T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Diamond in the Rough Direct T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X |
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Disney Point T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Eighth Wonder of the World T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Fat City Direct Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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G-String T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Generation Gap T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Iron Cross T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Kansas City T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Le Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Outer Space Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Penn Station T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Sling Time T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Squat Thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Taste of Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Totally Crass T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Underbelly T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wichita T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 41.73517, -74.19463 |
| FA: | TR: Dustin Portzline Lead: Alan Kline |
| Page Views: | 63 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | akline on Oct 26, 2025 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Description
Route name given by first TR ascent.
The route starts up a dihedral with a very thin crack in the back of it about 6’ left of the start of Penn Station.
Climb the dihedral for about 20’ until you are able to start the rightward traverse aiming for a left-facing flake that is somehow attached to the wall. The flake looks dubious, but is actually pretty strong. Continue around the corner to the right of the flake and follow the rounded nose and thin right face to a ledge where it connects with Grand Central to the top of the cliff, or build a belay at this stance. It is also easy to set up on TR by climbing Grand Central to this stance on top of the nose.
The climbing is very thoughtful and involves recycling of holds, which is pretty cool. The rock is mostly bulletproof and follows a cool tiered nose.
The gear is small, and pumpy to place. A serious lead for sure.
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