Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, TR, 110 ft (33 m)|
|FA:||FA Dave Lanman, 1994; FFA Alan Kline, 2018|
|Page Views:||676 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||akline on Apr 8, 2018|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Start the same as for Broken Sling, and climb to just the before the pitch 1 belay, then traverse out left on a hanging slab to access the left-facing corner, which is to the right of Squat Thrust's corner.
Climb the left-facing corner to a roof, and continue straight up the corner/crack system to another roof, and pass it on the right. Move up to a great juggy horizontal and then climb through another easier roof just below and left of a small pitch pine tree. Climb easier ground to the top of the cliff.