Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
GPS: 41.73517, -74.19463
FA: ??
Page Views: 152 total · 7/month
Shared By: akline on Nov 26, 2024
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Chris Vultaggio, M Santisi

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Description Suggest change

Wow! Hidden gem!
I don’t know what the history behind the FA is, but the way it is climbed now is amazing and should see way more traffic.
Start on Broken Sling, after about 20’ move around the right-facing corner onto the slab and climb up to the next horizontal crack and move to the base of a shallow left-facing corner. This corner is hard to protect and is the mental crux, in my opinion. Once past this corner you have a good rest and then follow a thin horizontal crack around the corner to the left and follow face holds and a crack to the obvious thin crack splitting the roof above you. Pull this and then wonder up the face to the top.
What a crazy journey!

Location Suggest change

Starts on Broken Sling, about 20’ right of the start of  Disneyland. 

Protection Suggest change

Decent. Some runout 5.10 climbing and you need a good amount of longer runners and small cams.

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