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Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Criss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disney Point T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kansas City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sling Time T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squat thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A4-5 X
Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy, Hans Kraus, 1957
Page Views: 2,450 total, 17/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 31, 2006 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

The first pitch of this route is a nice, deceptively hard 5.7. Starting on the left side, climb an elegant arete to a notch in the roof above and pull through into the short open book above. Traverse left to a corner and belay; this is as far as most people go (a rap anchor is usually here).

The second pitch can either go up and left to Baskerville Terrace or up and right to Yellow Ridge: Traverse left under the roof about 30' to an obstructive tree. Go up and right to link to the fantastic P3 of Yellow Ridge, or swing out left to link to P3 of Baskerville Terrace.

Location

Left of Yellow Ridge a long roof is broken by a nose - this is Fat Stick.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack

Photos

MojoMonkey  
 
I had fun on this (only did P1). Pulling into the notch seemed easy to me and I thought the "awkward climbing" above it was harder. Looked simple at first but I got stopped short of exiting it. Made it through (backwards?) after and didn't feel graceful, but it was amusing! Jun 27, 2016
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.7+
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.7+
Small cams (C3s) useful. May 25, 2015
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Kind of strange. Worth doing once. The moves through the notch are awkward. Apr 22, 2014
ARMoss
  5.7+
ARMoss  
  5.7+
Had plans to take a group of 3 up this, but top-roped everybody after pitch 1. Tight, cramped belay and awkward to organize. Jul 16, 2013
In Gran's 1964 guide he writes "this climb has a habit of ejecting 5.7 leaders." Dec 29, 2012
Galen Rahmlow
Woodbury, MN
  5.8
Galen Rahmlow   Woodbury, MN
  5.8
I found the crux to be after the notch (the "awkward move"), mainly because I got jammed in the flare had trouble moving anywhere after that. I also had trouble with gear. Could be PG but the gear all seems to be the same size - small. I burned through most of it moving up to the notch and only had a less than ideal nut to protect the awkward move above (wrong size). My follower loved the climb. May 21, 2012
Michael G
  5.8-
Michael G  
  5.8-
...or easy for the grade if you go by the Dick Williams 5.8 rating. Jul 13, 2009
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
This is also a great route to climb if you are looking to get out of the rain. Short, but fun and hard for the grade. Dec 27, 2007