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Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Criss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disney Point T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kansas City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sling Time T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squat thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A4-5 X
Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy, Bob Larsen, Ken Prestrud, 1957. FFA: John Turner, 1958
Page Views: 2,489 total, 17/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

A wild climb with a fun overhang on the first pitch, and some exciting face moves and an awkward alcove on the second pitch.

Start about 20' right of Yellow Ridge, at a corner with a thin crack on the right face.

P1: Climb the thin crack and face to an overhang. Turn the overhang on the left to an arete. Climb a wide crack to a belay stance on the arete. 5.8, 70'.

P1 variation: The wide crack can be bypassed by traversing left, climbing a face, then moving back right above the wide section.

P2: Continue up the arete, then move left and up a thin face with poor pro to a cramped alcove below a roof. Turn the roof on the left (crux, good pro) and continue to the top. 5.8+ PG, 90'.

Protection

Standard Rack. I used a Ball Nut to protect the thin crack at the start of the climb. The wide crack at the end of P1 would need a very large cam (5") to protect it.

Photos

Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
Can only comment on p1. Linked to yellow ridge in the dark. Anyway. It does look pretty rough. But the climbing through the overhangs is really exciting with great gear. The big crack on top was a little run out but not hard moves maybe 5.5. The crack would take a 5 or 6 for sure. My first gear down low was the tree although apparently tiny gear is possible. Its worth doing...thought the first pitch was more fun than p1 of yellow ridge but noticeably harder. Nov 10, 2014
mattc81
  5.9+ PG13
mattc81  
  5.9+ PG13
made me wonder why I rock climb. awkward and manky. terrible route compared to others next to it. Jun 25, 2013
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
 
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
 
great climb that is often open due to the offputting tree in the corner on pitch 1. Pitch 2 has two nice very different cruxes. Double ropes are helpful and let you rap off Alphonse. Jun 11, 2012
doligo
  5.8 PG13
doligo  
  5.8 PG13
Got to only lead P1 as it was getting dark. I used an offset brassie and a green ballnut to protect initial moves. Roof felt hard for a 5.8, but there is a bomber fingerlock on top, so bomber that I was afraid I would rip my finger off if my feet came off (feet looked sleek). After fussing around and cutting my cuticles, I thought it wasn't worth risking a broken finger, so I bypassed the roof on the right and then traversed back to the corner crack. The crack above the roof is wide! I grunted my way up, I don't think even #5 would have been helpful - I was able to jam my entire body and my women's size 7 foot wasn't long enough for a secure jam across (people with bigger feet may be able to use the crack to jam their feet). Great little climb, can't wait to get back to do P2. Nov 15, 2010