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Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Criss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disney Point T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kansas City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sling Time T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squat thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A4-5 X
Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Art Gran & Roman Sadowy 1957
Page Views: 1,355 total, 15/month
Shared By: SethG on Jun 7, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Mention Le Plie to climbers familiar with the Near Trapps and they will often groan. It is known for its awkwardness, and is perhaps underappreciated. It is one of the few climbs that are easier if you are short. When I climbed it the other day, after the brief moment of disorientation and panic as I pulled the crux and squirmed on the cramped shelf, I had to laugh. This climb is a trip, completely unlike any climb you'll ever find in a gym. Do it, at least once.

Pitch 1: Start at the thin vertical crack in the middle of the slab beneath a large chockstone. Climb up to the top of the crack and then angle left to the left side of the chockstone. Find a way to pull up onto the slanting, cramped shelf to the left of the chockstone (crux). Somehow squirm left about 10-15 feet to a much more comfortable, easy ledge. Traverse left another 15 feet or so on this easy ledge, to a rat's nest of slings. I was told that many people simply rap here from the slings, but you shouldn't, because (a) the slings are total junk/faded/partially worn through, and (b) you still haven't finished the pitch! From the rat's nest of slings, work your body up onto ANOTHER slanting, cramped shelf (easier than the first), worm your way to the left to a good stance and belay. 5.7-, 90 feet, much of it traversing.

Pitch 2: This is a good, if short, pitch. From the belay, move up and left on a great footrail to a notch in the small overhang, move above the overhang (nice 5.6 crux), and then traverse easily right until easy rock will take you to the top. I think we may have traversed too far to the right, because when we headed up it was just a step or two to the bushes. 5.6, 70 feet, again much of it traversing.

Location

The start: this is one of the first climbs in the Nears as you enter off the trail from the road. You will see huge roofs over your head as soon as you get to the cliff. Above slightly to the right is the giant Kansas City roof, which often has fixed gear hanging from it. Le Plie starts at a slab with a vertical crack running up the middle to a large chockstone.

To descend: as mentioned in the description, there is a rat's nest of slings about 2/3 of the way through pitch one, but I do not advise using them to descend. Instead, finish the climb and do the one-minute walk-off.

Protection

Standard rack. The pro is very good. You can thread a sling at the chockstone for bombproof pro at the crux, and there is a good cam on the first slanting shelf right after you get yourself up there. The rest of the climb has pro wherever you need it.

Photos

Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
The rat's nest of slings has been replaced with static rope. Also, this route should be called "Deep Squat". Stretch a bit before starting up. Jul 24, 2015
Steve Moulding
New York
 
Steve Moulding   New York
 
I'm 6'3. Definitely found this one awkward!!! Jun 9, 2012