Avg: 2 from 22 votes
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Art Gran & Roman Sadowy 1957|
|Page Views:||1,847 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||SethG on Jun 7, 2010|
See mohonkpreserve.org/visit for updates.
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Pitch 1: Start at the thin vertical crack in the middle of the slab beneath a large chockstone. Climb up to the top of the crack and then angle left to the left side of the chockstone. Find a way to pull up onto the slanting, cramped shelf to the left of the chockstone (crux). Somehow squirm left about 10-15 feet to a much more comfortable, easy ledge. Traverse left another 15 feet or so on this easy ledge, to a rat's nest of slings. I was told that many people simply rap here from the slings, but you shouldn't, because (a) the slings are total junk/faded/partially worn through, and (b) you still haven't finished the pitch! From the rat's nest of slings, work your body up onto ANOTHER slanting, cramped shelf (easier than the first), worm your way to the left to a good stance and belay. 5.7-, 90 feet, much of it traversing.
Pitch 2: This is a good, if short, pitch. From the belay, move up and left on a great footrail to a notch in the small overhang, move above the overhang (nice 5.6 crux), and then traverse easily right until easy rock will take you to the top. I think we may have traversed too far to the right, because when we headed up it was just a step or two to the bushes. 5.6, 70 feet, again much of it traversing.
To descend: as mentioned in the description, there is a rat's nest of slings about 2/3 of the way through pitch one, but I do not advise using them to descend. Instead, finish the climb and do the one-minute walk-off.