Avg: 3.6 from 226 votes
Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
|Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Criss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Disney Point T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Kansas City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13|
|Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Sling Time T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Squat thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A4-5 X|
|Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Fritz Wiessner, Edward and Ann Gross, 1944|
|Page Views:||17,260 total, 120/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Feb 22, 2006|
DescriptionPerhaps the best 5.7 in the Gunks.
This climb is just a few minutes from the road - you'll pass Disneyland and a number of inside and outside corners. Immediately past Yellow Ridge is the huge roof of Fat Stick. The route is most easily recognized by the left-leaning offwidth crack about 15' off the deck.
P1: There are two ways to start. On the right is a left-facing corner leading up to a small roof - you traverse left under the roof to the offwidth crack (5.7 and reasonably protected). A more direct start traverses on thin holds (no protection) to the rib below the offwidth crack and then up. This is 5.7 and scary but a good spot will keep you safe.
In either case, attack the offwidth above. At a horizontal you can either traverse right out of the crack and climb the face or be like Fritz and power up the offwidth. Both of these are about 5.7. Most people choose the face.
Continue to a good ledge just above the offwidth, and belay here.
P2: Climb a corner to a roof about 20' above the good ledge. Instead of pulling through the roof, traverse up and left about 50' to a another good ledge. 5.7, 120'.
P3: Make thin moves traversing to the left edge of the ledge, and climb up just right of the obvious ridge for about 10'. Traverse left to the arete, passing a pin. Follow this up past another old pin to a roof (fortunately much easier than it looks!) and then on to the top. 5.7, 80'.
From the top, walk climbers' right along the clifftop until it is possible to easily scramble back down to the base, just before the road.