Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Edward and Ann Gross, 1944
Page Views: 20,861 total · 119/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 22, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Perhaps the best 5.7 in the Gunks.

This climb is just a few minutes from the road - you'll pass Disneyland and a number of inside and outside corners. Immediately past Yellow Ridge is the huge roof of Fat Stick. The route is most easily recognized by the left-leaning offwidth crack about 15' off the deck.

P1: There are two ways to start. On the right is a left-facing corner leading up to a small roof - you traverse left under the roof to the offwidth crack (5.7 and reasonably protected). A more direct start traverses on thin holds (no protection) to the rib below the offwidth crack and then up. This is 5.7 and scary but a good spot will keep you safe.

In either case, attack the offwidth above. At a horizontal you can either traverse right out of the crack and climb the face or be like Fritz and power up the offwidth. Both of these are about 5.7. Most people choose the face.

Continue to a good ledge just above the offwidth, and belay here.

P2: Climb a corner to a roof about 20' above the good ledge. Instead of pulling through the roof, traverse up and left about 50' to a another good ledge. 5.7, 120'.

P3: Make thin moves traversing to the left edge of the ledge, and climb up just right of the obvious ridge for about 10'. Traverse left to the arete, passing a pin. Follow this up past another old pin to a roof (fortunately much easier than it looks!) and then on to the top. 5.7, 80'.

From the top, walk climbers' right along the clifftop until it is possible to easily scramble back down to the base, just before the road.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. No need for offwidth pro.

Photos