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Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Criss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disney Point T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kansas City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sling Time T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squat thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A4-5 X
Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Rich Romano and Chuck Calef, 1981
Page Views: 3,502 total · 29/month
Shared By: tradryan on May 15, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Start up Outer Space for about 40 feet. Rather than continue upwards, traverse left under the biggest roof in the chalked up horizontal. Traverse for 20 feet (pumpy!) until you're under the roof at a spot where some seams run through it. Get huge and climb through the roof - way fun. Fixed anchors lie immediately above.

Location

Same start as Outer Space, ~20 feet to the right of Criss.

Protection

Usual stuff, good pro.

Photos

Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
You do not need a #5 or #6 for this climb, in my opinion. Good gear right before the pre-traverse sequence and great gear and shake at the beginning of the traverse. Jul 19, 2017
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
My friend is sending it in pink-point style. He did it while placing gear later on.

youtu.be/tNChkP-rRnM Sep 6, 2012
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
Super fun route! Pinkpointed it a year ago, but only now had enough endurance to hangout placing that roof piece.
Bring #5 or #6 cam to protect 5.9 moves before the traverse. Jul 5, 2011

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