Type: Trad, 180 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA (P1) 1957: Jim McCarthy and Hans Kraus, FA (P2 & P3) 1968: John Stannard and G. Livingston
Page Views: 2,354 total · 20/month
Shared By: Micah M on Apr 24, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

21 Opinions

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P1: 5.8 G-PG: Climb the open book/flakes/face to a stance below the V-notch in the overhang. Climb past notch (crux), then work your way up past an awkward move to the overhang, move left to a belay stance at a belay/rap-station (60 ft)

P2: 5.10b G (but see comments below): Climb the overhang directly above into the short left-facing corner (crux), exit right onto the face and continue up a bit right to a belay on the ledge below the left-facing corner (60 ft)

P3: 5.9+ PG-PG13: Climb face and corner above to the overhangs. Diagonal steeply up right, then straight to the top (60 ft)


Location: At the base of the open book, immediately left of the prominent nose, 40 ft left of Yellow Ridge, same as Fat Stick.


Standard rack. Can be done in 1 pitch with double ropes


Micah M
Micah M  
This is a very nice route, and the best pitch is the last one, do it! With double ropes you can do all 3 in one. 3rd pitch gets R rating in the guide book but is actually safe and overhanging. You wont be disappointed, except maybe by the amount of liken on the assume steep jugs! Apr 24, 2009
I don't understand this route description... I find the crux of the second pitch to be pretty R... Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I remember the gear being somewhat iffy in the roof (shallow/flared large cam?). Even if it was bomber, the crux is pulling into the corner, and if you miss, you are either landing on the low angle slab below or on your belayer.

I also remember the second pitch crux as being committing and nonobvious.

Did anyone else find this pretty spooky? Apr 28, 2009
Spiro Spiro
Spiro Spiro  
The gear is fine under the roof (bomber) and you can place a piece above you if you want. this is PG, worst case scenario. Good climb. Oct 17, 2010
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
What happened? This used to be such a good 9. As 10b, this is probably the hardest Gunks route I self-belayed, unless some other route I've done was upgraded more. I remember having trouble hanging out on the last pitch roofs getting gear in and dealing with the rope.

As for self-belaying, I'm been doing it since year 1 (or 2?), that is, for 38 or 39 years now. I remember self belaying 5.1s and 5.2s at Seneca with prusiks in 71 or 72. (I did Fat Stick Direct using Jumars.) I self belayed some good routes just yesterday in Poudre Canyon near Fort Collins (I motorcycled there). In many ways it's simpler, not dealing with partners, and it's very rewarding. Some of my best, and worst, climbing has been self belaying. It keeps you focused! No major incidents so far except dropping the rope messing with the prussiks while doing the FA of P2 of Organic Iron. That certainly counts as an "incident". Oct 17, 2010
Agreed, there's nothing G about the second pitch crux at all. #3 camalot is very insecure, and #4 does not fit. The corner above the second pitch looks dirty, too. No idea why it's a three star classic in the book. Bailed. Jun 23, 2014
I combined pitch one and two and thought this was a three-star outing, with multiple interesting challenges. At the crux roof, I thought the #3 underneath was a little bit tricky to arrange but seemed solid. I also was able to get a small nut up over the lip, in the corner. Still, I thought I might hit the slab if I blew the move and tried very hard not to fall! The 5.9 crux out around the next roof is really good. The final pitch to the top looked very dirty to us so we finished on Yellow Ridge. Jul 22, 2018