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Squat Thrust
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Between the Lines T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Bold is Beautiful T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bumkey T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Choad Warrior T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Close Encounters of the 5th Class Kind T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Criss T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Diamond In The Rough T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Diamond in the Rough Direct T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X |
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Disney Point T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Eighth Wonder of the World T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Fat City Direct Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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G-String T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Generation Gap T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Iron Cross T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Kansas City T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Le Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Outer Space Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Penn Station T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Sling Time T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Squat Thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Taste of Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Totally Crass T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Underbelly T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wichita T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 41.73517, -74.19463 |
| FA: | Russ Clune and Jeff Morris, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,224 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | akline on Jul 20, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Description
Start on Broken Sling until you get to the first roof, where you bust out left around the corner to a steep slab. Climb the slab to a small stance below a left-facing corner. From here you have to execute an awkward 5.10+ R boulder problem to get to the good rest stance on the ledge above. This boulder problem is decently protected by small cams, but if you fall, you will most likely slam into the slab below. Once at the upper stance, continue straight up an obvious right-facing corner to a small roof, make a move out right through the roof, and follow a right facing flake system to easier climbing.
I thought that the climbing was super fun and interesting for most of the climb, but the gear is hard to place well.
Location
The route shares the start of Broken Sling. You'll end up climbing the overhanging orange face up and left that you can see through the trees when standing at the base.
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