Avg: 3.2 from 67 votes
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Dave Craft, Pete Geiser, 1959|
|Page Views:||7,669 total · 41/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Start on the left wall of the corner immediately left of Te Dum. This is about 65' left of Disneyland.
P1: Climb up a deceptively difficult face with cracks. About 60' up is the crux: a wild undercling right. The only footholds are immediately under the flake, making the move far scarier for tall people. Fortunately the crux is short. Belay at a small stance under a roof after the crux. 5.9, 80'.
P2: Turn the roof on the right and climb easier ground to the top. 5.8, 60'.
Walk off to the right.