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Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bumkey T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Criss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disney Point T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
G-String T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hounds, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kansas City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sling Time T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squat thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A4-5 X
Wichita T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Craft, Pete Geiser, 1959
Page Views: 6,347 total · 42/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

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Unlike most Gunks routes, this one is harder than it looks.

Start on the left wall of the corner immediately left of Te Dum. This is about 65' left of Disneyland.

P1: Climb up a deceptively difficult face with cracks. About 60' up is the crux: a wild undercling right. The only footholds are immediately under the flake, making the move far scarier for tall people. Fortunately the crux is short. Belay at a small stance under a roof after the crux. 5.9, 80'.

P2: Turn the roof on the right and climb easier ground to the top. 5.8, 60'.

Walk off to the right.


The crux is protected by either a large cam (#6) or a small RP / blue Alien.
Francis Baker (fran)
Las Vegas,NV
Francis Baker (fran)   Las Vegas,NV
The crux moves are protected by a fixed pin backed up by a green #0.75 Camalot at your feet. Then there is a small crack on the face under the roof that takes a blue Alien. Look carefully at the photos. Sorry for the poor quality. I did this onsight with at least a dozen people watching. One of the spectators sent me the pics. I think the face moves avoiding the offwidth below are actually the crux. You will scrape the left side of you face doing the liback moves. My glasses still bear the scars! Aug 7, 2006
I think this was my first 5.9 on-sight in the Gunks. What a great route! But of course, I'm only 5'7".... Aug 21, 2006
Nate Miller
San Diego, CA
Nate Miller   San Diego, CA
As far as protection right at the crux, I'm not so sure about a #4 protecting as described in the route description. Maybe a #6 would do it. There is a fixed small nut that I backed up with a #0 C3. Oct 12, 2009
chewtoynj   NJ
This was my first 5.9 onsight ever. And I was as green as green gets for a trad leader back then, and not ready for this route. That fixed nut up in the crux is mine from like 2001. Great route though. I went back and re-led it a few years ago. May 11, 2010
Steven Cherry  
I don't know anyone who uses a large cam, and wouldn't it be in your way, anyway? The blue Alien is very good, and you can also get a black (not as good a placement and of course smaller).

For me, the crux of p2 is harder than the crux of p1. Jun 12, 2010
Jersey City, NJ
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
I like to start this climb on the far left side of the buttress and diagonal up across to the inverted layback. Hauled my old number 5 camalot up once just to say I used it but it was too small. A 6 might work, or a big bro, if you are determined to practice placing big gear, but not needed since small cams work (albeit in a blind placement). Once I found a small fixed rp someone had worked in half way out the layback. I clipped it and, for the first and only time fell off this crux. It held, but again not needed. Nov 7, 2011
Tony Lopez
Tony Lopez   NJ
A #6 barely worked but is not necessary as stated above. Going to the top in one pitch is fine if your second is solid. Jul 14, 2014
crackatoa Spiesbach
crackatoa Spiesbach   Boulder,Co
Do the offwidth and traverse over.. yeehaw. It takes #5 and #6 down low then has a pin about midway up. Grunt on up that sucker! Mar 28, 2016

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