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Topeka

Name: Topeka
Rating: 1.5

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Bumkey T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Criss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Disney Point T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	G-String T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Kansas City T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Le Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Outer Space Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
	Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Sling Time T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Squat thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A4-5 X
	Wichita T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, 60 ft
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	648 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Brian Monetti on Mar 10, 2016
Admins:	RJ B Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.

The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.

Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.

Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.

If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.

Description

Goes up the left facing corner 15' to the right of Kansas. Climb up blocky 5.6 to a tricky bulge, and into a stance before traversing out right (crux) and then up to the trees. Avoid placing gear behind the loose block at the top of the dihedral.