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Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Criss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disney Point T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kansas City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sling Time T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squat thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A4-5 X
Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Art Gran, Jim Geiser, 1959
Page Views: 1,755 total, 12/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

A fine route that gets surprisingly little traffic. Not the place for a beginning 5.8 leader.

This is one of the first routes in the Nears. When the trail first hits the rock, look up and locate the huge Kansas City roof. This route starts just a little bit left. The upper part is obvious - a V-shaped corner about 10' high, leading to a roof. The start is harder to locate - look for a long, leftward traverse into the V-corner.

P1: To reach this traverse, climb up easily to a stance below a small roof. Clip the pin above, drop in a nut to back it up and then commit to the crux: a traverse up and left just above a small overhang. This traverse is tenuous at best, and there's not much beyond the pin to protect you. After finally reaching good holds, drop in a piece for your second and continue to traverse to the corner. Then up and left to an anchor. 5.8 PG, 120'.

You can go up to the trees here but most people rap from the anchor.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack

Photos

John Ely   DC
Yeah, it is very 5.8 just clipping the first pin, though more height would help. Before doing so, it is possible to slot a yellow alien or so in the handholds below to protect while reaching up for the pin. Aug 19, 2015
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Actually, I don't think you climb up easily to the pin. The move over the bulge is committing and not well protected. A fall there would result in an injury. The traverse has tiny hands but pretty good feet. It's not so bad. Continue to the alcove, look around for hands and work your way up to the final, juggy traverse. It's a fun climb, but, be prepared for run out, PG 13 climbing. May 25, 2014