Avg: 2.8 from 25 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|FA:||Art Gran, Jim Geiser, 1959|
|Page Views:||2,530 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
This is one of the first routes in the Nears. When the trail first hits the rock, look up and locate the huge Kansas City roof. This route starts just a little bit left. The upper part is obvious - a V-shaped corner about 10' high, leading to a roof. The start is harder to locate - look for a long, leftward traverse into the V-corner.
P1: To reach this traverse, climb up easily to a stance below a small roof. Clip the pin above, drop in a nut to back it up and then commit to the crux: a traverse up and left just above a small overhang. This traverse is tenuous at best, and there's not much beyond the pin to protect you. After finally reaching good holds, drop in a piece for your second and continue to traverse to the corner. Then up and left to an anchor. 5.8 PG, 120'.
You can go up to the trees here but most people rap from the anchor.