Avg: 0.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m)|
|Page Views:||754 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Mikey Anderson on Jun 2, 2018|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
I found that the crux is establishing yourself onto the slab. The route has no traffic whatsoever and is entirely lichen-dominated; which is why this climb does not come recommended. If the lichen is even remotely wet/hydrated, it makes this one of the saddest and hardest 5.3s
Walk off down to the right of the climb.
Look for a four-foot high crack below two right-facing flakes (very obvious) which are the far right end of the cliff.