Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pete Ramins, John Stannard, 1971
Page Views: 4,680 total · 30/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on May 23, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Description

A classis route that begins with a strenuous layback! Start 25' left of Criss, at a 10'-high right-facing corner with a hand crack that goes through the bulging overhang above the corner. This is about 30' right of Broken Sling.

P1: Jam and layback up the crack, then climb straight up past a fixed pin and several small overhangs to a tiny stance and belay at a fixed anchor of three pitons with chains. A #.75 Camalot protects the bouldery moves up to the pin. 5.10a, 60'.

P2: Seldom done these days. Move up and left past a small left-facing corner, then up past an overhang to another left-facing corner and a roof. Exit right and continue to the top. 120'.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack

Photos

gilp
  5.10a
gilp  
  5.10a
Tricky climb for 5.10 a. Harder now that the feet are all polished on the lower section. Full value though. Mar 31, 2007
Did this route Spring '78; led 2nd pitch. I recall a small stopper shortly off the belay, and that was it for next 15 ft or so. The runout's on a beautiful face--a couple 5.9 moves halfway but all nice edging, nothing weird. Keep in balance and think it through. Fond recollection of being confident, focused, moving easily, totally unaware of the unpleasant fall. Feb 19, 2008
bheller
SL UT
  5.10a R
bheller   SL UT
  5.10a R
Link both pitches into 1 with careful long sling placement- its better this way. Also- 5.9 and very R above the short first pitch anchor. Sep 18, 2010
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10a
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10a
As of March 2011, someone has dismantled the anchor above pitch 1. Instead of a couple old pitons and an assortment of tiny nuts placed at various angles and directions in the horizontal all tied together with an equalized anchor, there is now only a couple of nuts all facing for a leftward pull and "equalized" with a cold shut. Pitons and some of the nuts are gone.

I'd fix this up but know nothing about piton craft. Mar 21, 2011
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10a
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10a
Climbed this October 15, the anchor remains in the same condition as it appeared in my previous condition report. A 150 lb. climber rapped off off this "anchor", but this collection of small rusted stoppers is only going to get worse as the years pass. Oct 23, 2011
R. Ruef  
Great climb. Tricky sequence at the start, but very reasonable. Doesn't ease up too much after the early crux, looks juggy from the ground, but a little more slopey once you're up there. Awkward moves finish the climb.

Climbed this on 2/26/12. Took some photos of the mannk-or atop the first pitch (will post). Left a couple of offsets equalized below as backup, they're probably bootied by now. I'm all for keepin' it trad, but this climb would definitely benefit from a bolt or two to back up the nuts at the top of the first pitch (or at least a piton). Mar 5, 2012
paulmadry
  5.10a
paulmadry  
  5.10a
There is no good reason to avoid pitch 2 (5.9?). There is a stretch of maybe 10-12 feet with no pro on a 5.7 face. It's PG if you do the route in one longer pitch. Maybe that's why the belay was disassembled. I'd think that relaying on the piton at the start of pitch 1 is more R than the 2nd pitch. Jul 22, 2012
I'm with Lucander on this one, there should be a solid piton anchor placed on the first pitch. First off running both pitches together will put your second in serious decking potential through the crux, second if you do belay at the top of the first pitch it's fairly difficult to back up that anchor with equalized gear, and finally if the leader would blow the 5.8ish runout at the start of the second pitch they'd fall directly onto that pos set of rusty nuts. Additionally, the wires on those rusted nuts will go and take away the opportunity for good gear there (similar to the two blown wires on birdcage right now). Just place a few pins and make this awesome climb safer. Oct 17, 2013
Ross Exler
Denver, CO
 
Ross Exler   Denver, CO
 
As of 5/25/14, the anchor on top of pitch 1 consists of 2 good pins and an assortment of nuts. These are all equalized with new cord. Thank you to the party responsible. May 29, 2014
Systematic
  5.10a
Systematic  
  5.10a
Fun, interesting moves with relatively safe falls on steep terrain. I don't think it gets significantly easier until a good stance 1/2-3/4 way up. The holds do look smooth and polished, but I think that's a natural feature of the rock... Just look at the big smooth roof to the right of the route.

Anchor of pins + nuts + equalized cord (from 5/14?) is still there. Sep 29, 2016
SethG  
Just did this route for the first time yesterday. Joe Leiper's description above is spot on-- and he provided it from memory, after thirty years!

IMHO you haven't done this route if you skip pitch two. Heady thin face climbing and two fun roofs. The final overhang is a puzzler. Do it all in one long pitch. Tons of climbing, lots of variety. Apr 3, 2017
adam gong
Santa Monica, CA
adam gong   Santa Monica, CA
Awesome route. Tried some crack beta for the crux, found it easier than laybacking Jan 28, 2018
Rob D.
Brooklyn, NY
 
Rob D.   Brooklyn, NY
 
The anchor at the top of P1 is now three pitons with chains. There is a tiny amount of room between two of them where you can place a small cam if you want. Apr 23, 2018
artem Vasilyev
New York, NY
  5.10a/b PG13
artem Vasilyev   New York, NY
  5.10a/b PG13
P2 is PG13 no doubt. Fall would suck. Roof was great. Oct 1, 2018