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a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Alphonse 
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Broken Sling 
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Criss Cross Direct 
Disney Point 
Disneyland 
Easy Rider 
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Fat Stick 
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b 
G-String Giants 
Gelsa 
Grand Central 
Hounds, The 
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Infinite Space 
Inverted Layback 
Kansas City 
Land of The Giants 
Layback 
Le Plie 
Outer Space 
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Sling Time 
Swing Time 
Te Dum 
Yellow Belly 
Yellow Ridge 

Broken Sling 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, 1962
Page Views: 3,765
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 7, 2006
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Jeff climbing Broken Sling.

Description 

One of the 5.8 testpieces of the Gunks: the "+" refers to the starting move (certainly harder than 5.8), and to the scary start of the 2nd pitch.

Although short, this climb is often done in 2 pitches to avoid rope drag.

This climb is easy to recognize - it is not far from where the trail brings you to the cliff, and is between the overhanging hand crack of Criss Cross Direct and the huge roof to the right of Disneyland. Broken Sling starts at a left-facing arete just under a right-facing corner and roof.

P1: Locate an obvious boulder problem just right of a low roof. A large jug about 10' up dares you to grab it. The moves up through this are surprisingly tricky - you're definitely risking a twisted ankle or worse. You can protect with a cam on the left (tough to place) or just go for it and place a piece from the big jug. Borrow a crash pad or bring a beefy spotter. Once your feet are on the jug all is well, but there's a lot more climbing ahead.

Above, move up to a small roof, turn it on the left, then climb up meandering towards a large alcove with a fixed anchor. Belay here to avoid rope drag. 5.8+, 75'.

P2: Climb out right of the alcove. A pin that once protected the traverse is gone now, so this part is hard to protect. You can make a long reach straight up if you're tall, or, as most people do, quake right, up, and left on minimal pro to easier ground. A bit more climbing leads to the top. 5.8 PG, 65'.

Walk along the cliff to climbers' right, then before the road, scramble back down to the cliff base.


Protection 

Standad Gunks rack to a #3 camalot. Some small stuff might help on P2.



Photos of Broken Sling Slideshow Add Photo
April 5th 1988. The jug on Broken Sling after the boulder move start off the ground. Mark Taylor leading. I went back to lead this a few years later. Great climb!
April 5th 1988. The jug on Broken Sling after the ...
Comments on Broken Sling Add Comment
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By Tristan Perry
May 11, 2007

This is a very exciting climb, from start to finish. The first pitch is physical and continuously interesting, while the second pitch has a very tricky traverse that is needed to approach the upper overhangs. I thought this sequence was very inobvious, even though it was clear where to go above. The upper overhangs are wild and crazy! So good!

By Spiro
Nov 2, 2008
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

Very fun climb, felt it was not an R rating, once you hit jug off initial moves there was gear abound.

By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Jan 29, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The first pitch is a giant bag of sand.

By ntableman
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

I bailed on the first small roof, rounded to the face and did some sketch face climbing to return to the route. From the chalk, I am not the first person to do this. It is much harder than pulling the roof it would seem!

By Pawel
From: NJ
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Agree with Spiro: once you get the jug, which is two moves off the ground, you can place solid gear in the corner. The scary traverse is well protected with C3's. Interesting climbing all the way.

By R. Ruef
May 6, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Awkward move after awkward move. Surprised that Williams gives this three stars. Definitely one of my least favorites.

By JonP756
From: Mahwah, NJ
Nov 3, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

I don't understand all the hype about this route being super sand bagged.. It's just like every other Gunk's 5.8.. To call it 5.10a is absurd!