Broken Sling 5.8+ PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy, 1962 |
| Submitted By: | John Peterson on Mar 7, 2006 |
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Jeff climbing Broken Sling.
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Description One of the 5.8 testpieces of the Gunks: the "+" refers to the starting move (certainly harder than 5.8), and to the scary start of the 2nd pitch.
Although short, this climb is often done in 2 pitches to avoid rope drag.
This climb is easy to recognize - about 50' past the initial boulder pile is the huge roof to the right of Disneyland. Broken Sling climbs the right edge of this area. It starts at a left-facing arete just under a right-facing corner and roof.
P1: Locate an obvious boulder problem just right of a low roof. A large jug about 10' up dares you to grab it. The moves up through this are surprisingly tricky - you're definitely risking a twisted ankle or worse. You can protect with a cam on the left (tough to place) or just go for it and place a piece from the big jug. Borrow a crash pad or bring a beefy spotter. Once your feet are on the jug all is well, but there's a lot more climbing ahead.
Above, move up to a small roof, turn it on the left, then climb up meandering towards a large alcove with a fixed anchor. Belay here to avoid rope drag. 5.8+, 75'.
P2: Climb out right of the alcove. A pin that once protected the traverse is gone now, so this part is hard to protect. You can make a long reach straight up if you're tall, or, as most people do, quake right, up, and left on minimal pro to easier ground. A bit more climbing leads to the top. 5.8 PG, 65'.
Protection Standad Gunks rack to a #3 camalot. Some small stuff might help on P2.
April 5th 1988. The jug on Broken Sling after the ...
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By Tristan Perry
May 11, 2007
| This is a very exciting climb, from start to finish. The first pitch is physical and continuously interesting, while the second pitch has a very tricky traverse that is needed to approach the upper overhangs. I thought this sequence was very inobvious, even though it was clear where to go above. The upper overhangs are wild and crazy! So good! |
By Spiro
Nov 2, 2008
rating: 5.8-
| Very fun climb, felt it was not an R rating, once you hit jug off initial moves there was gear abound. |
By JohnWesely
From: Athens, GA
Jan 29, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| The first pitch is a giant bag of sand. |
By ntableman
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.9+ PG13
| I bailed on the first small roof, rounded to the face and did some sketch face climbing to return to the route. From the chalk, I am not the first person to do this. It is much harder than pulling the roof it would seem! |
By Pawel
From: NJ
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.8
| Agree with Spiro: once you get the jug, which is two moves off the ground, you can place solid gear in the corner. The scary traverse is well protected with C3's. Interesting climbing all the way. |
By R. Ruef
May 6, 2013
rating: 5.8+ PG13
| Awkward move after awkward move. Surprised that Williams gives this three stars. Definitely one of my least favorites. |
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