Criss Cross Direct 

Tricky climb for 5.10 a. Harder now that the feet are all polished on the lower section. Full value though.

Did this route Spring '78; led 2nd pitch. I recall a small stopper shortly off the belay, and that was it for next 15 ft or so. The runout's on a beautiful face--a couple 5.9 moves halfway but all nice edging, nothing weird. Keep in balance and think it through. Fond recollection of being confident, focused, moving easily, totally unaware of the unpleasant fall.

Link both pitches into 1 with careful long sling placement- its better this way. Also- 5.9 and very R above the short first pitch anchor.

As of March 2011, someone has dismantled the anchor above pitch 1. Instead of a couple old pitons and an assortment of tiny nuts placed at various angles and directions in the horizontal all tied together with an equalized anchor, there is now only a couple of nuts all facing for a leftward pull and "equalized" with a cold shut. Pitons and some of the nuts are gone.

I'd fix this up but know nothing about piton craft.

Climbed this October 15, the anchor remains in the same condition as it appeared in my previous condition report. A 150 lb. climber rapped off off this "anchor", but this collection of small rusted stoppers is only going to get worse as the years pass.

Great climb. Tricky sequence at the start, but very reasonable. Doesn't ease up too much after the early crux, looks juggy from the ground, but a little more slopey once you're up there. Awkward moves finish the climb.

Climbed this on 2/26/12. Took some photos of the mannk-or atop the first pitch (will post). Left a couple of offsets equalized below as backup, they're probably bootied by now. I'm all for keepin' it trad, but this climb would definitely benefit from a bolt or two to back up the nuts at the top of the first pitch (or at least a piton).

Ruef's anchor isn't there. The 4 rusty nuts are still in place, would be nice if someone knowledgeable in piton craft could replace the pins that disappeared a year or two ago.

There is no good reason to avoid pitch 2 (5.9?). There is a stretch of maybe 10-12 feet with no pro on a 5.7 face. It's PG if you do the route in one longer pitch. Maybe that's why the belay was disassembled. I'd think that relaying on the piton at the start of pitch 1 is more R than the 2nd pitch.