Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Aug., 2002 Mark Meschinelli, Dominic Eisinger
Page Views: 303 total · 9/month
Shared By: Mark Bealor on May 29, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

A hard boulder move off the ground (5.10, shorter climbers just might find this the crux) reaches the bolt and the crack. Traverse the crack out right (good gear and jams), then step easily up onto the face below the line of bolts. Now the climbing changes dramatically-negotiate the steep slab using rounded/slopey holds that are atypical for Poke-O. The line wanders a bit, and the easiest line is not a straight path between bolts. The guide describes the grade as "still debated between 10b and hard 11".
I'll split the difference-definitely not 10b, but choose the right line and no way is it hard 11...

Location

Walk right from the Pilgrim Wall to an arete with a bolt about 12' up. There is an obvious crack here that angles up and right.

Protection

Bolts and Camelots .5 thru #3 for the crack.

Photos

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Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11
It's ridiculous to call this 10b. I found two sections of 5.11; the boulder problem at the beginning (moving past the bolt to the crack, not the start off the ground) and in the vicinity of the second to last bolt. Reach and or height may help on these sequences. I'm 5'6" FWIW. There is plenty of 5.9 to 10+ in between. Jul 27, 2016
Jim Lawyer

  5.11b
Jim Lawyer    
  5.11b
Agree 100% Jon. More like 11b...or Meschinelli "10b". Ha ha ha. Aug 2, 2016
Derek Doucet
  5.10+
Derek Doucet  
  5.10+
I'll echo Jim and Jon. MIGHTY stout for .10b, or .10-anything for that matter. Really cool route, though. Aug 10, 2016
Mark Bealor
Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10+
Mark Bealor   Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10+
Looking Glass (Sun Wall) 10+..
I agree that the start, moving into the crack, is the crux. My wife, 5' 1 1/2" couldn't do that move. She cruised the upper slab..The slab is atypical for Poke-O, and the NE in general, maybe that's why people find it "hard".
I find Mayflower P1 way harder than Smear Campaign, that's 10C in the guidebook....I don't think that needs to be upgraded. Just figured I was missing something, or maybe the route was exposing a weakness in my technique.. Aug 21, 2016
I really liked this route but I thought it felt like 5.11, not 10+ Aug 22, 2016