Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,513 total · 18/month
Shared By: jmeizis on May 31, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

This climb is past Bloody Mary at the far northern end of the cliff. It follows a right leaning ramp/crack system and then traverses right for a couple hundred feet with a very heady third pitch. One could rap down from the second or third pitch without leaving gear.

The first pitch starts at the top of a large block which can be approached from tne north side with some third class. It follows the right leaning ramp/crack system to the overhanging roof that caps this section of the face. From here you traverse right for a pitch to an alcove. Another traversing pitch takes you underneath an airy roof to a good ledge. From here follow the overhanging crack. Although improbable it is not as hard as it looks. Do not try the shallower dihedral up and right. It's not anywhere in the 5.8 range.

Protection

A set of nuts and cams would get one through this easily. There are some fixed pins at the second and third pitch anchors. No anchors at the top.

Photos