Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 228 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Feb 16, 2017 with updates from Mack Johnson
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

This is a trad testpiece of technical laybacking and thin crack climbing. It was cleaned up a couple years ago, at least to the anchor described below.

Stick-clip a bolt, stand on the cheater stones, and make a hard move to gain the straight-up seam. Follow this with multiple cruxes to right-rising horizontal crack. Move right to a fixed anchor.

Location

5' right of Casual Observer below a bottom-less crack that begins 10' up.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 2", doubles in the smaller sizes.

History

The original line (1988, Mack Johnson, Jim Shimberg, Paul Boissoneault) began in Casual Observer and traversed right into the crack. It also continued above the fixed anchor up a corner to join The Fastest Gun, which is now too overgrown to climb. The variation described here (2013, Dominic Eisinger, Mark Meschinelli, David Hough) adds the boulder-problem start and the fixed anchor at the top of the good section.

Photos

Jim Lawyer

  5.11d
Jim Lawyer    
  5.11d
Avoiding the cheater stones is V6. Feb 16, 2017