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Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Certified Raw T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior Varsity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Karmic Kickback T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menace To Sobriety S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
P.T. Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psalm 32 T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0
Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 325 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Claude Lavallee & John Turner FFA: Jim McCarthy & Richard Goldstone
Page Views: 1,282 total, 14/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Aug 23, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

An adventurous tour of the left end of the Main Face with a fierce layback crux and an exciting traverse marred by loose rock, vegetation and a dirty last pitch.

NOTE: Pitch 1 starts on The Snake Ledge, which is accessed by climbing P1 of The Snake.

Pitch 1 (5.9 - 50ft): The physical crux of the climb. Start off the Snake Ledge at the block with a stacked block on top beneath the obvious 50’ leaning corner with a small stance 1/3 of the way up. Boulder up the initial section to a small stance on the small ledge and lock in to push through the sustained remainder to the “thank you climbing gods” ledge. Belay with gear in the crack and an optional bolt. It is also possible to continue up and left to the bolts above Firing Line (5.11b) to descend to the ground with two ropes, descend to the Snake Ledge with a single rope, or to set a top rope.

Pitch 2 (5.7 - 100ft): Follow the crack up the ramp around and past a higher angle step (crux) to a good gear belay in dike rock beneath the large roof.

Pitch 3 (5.8 - 100ft): The psychological crux. Traverse a few feet right of the belay and step up on to a small, discontinuous but good ledge system that traverses right in orange dike rock (loose, be on your toes) past a manky old piton. Make thin technical moves rightward on the ledge system to a stance on a good ledge in a shallow flared groove/corner. Have fun enjoying the process of sussing out the sequence to make the crux moves around the blunt arete onto the shoulder-height ledge on the other side. Continue up and right through the unpleasant jungle of vegetation to a set of two corners (the left-most hidden by vegetation) and build a gear belay. A better stance is available 15 feet to the right below a roof, but watch the very loose dike rock you have to step around.

Pitch 4 (5.6 PG/R - 100ft): An unfortunate price to pay for 2.5 pretty decent pitches below. Climb the second (right-most) of the two corners (the cleanest) and step left onto the face/ramp system. Trend up and left on the ramp to a shallow right-facing corner and punch up onto “slabs” (read as dirt, grass, and dead tree limbs) for 30-40 feet of oddly unnerving uphill walking to the trees.

Location

Start: 50 meters to the right of the Discord area, the large open area beneath the slabs and imposing roofs at the top of the face. Once on the Snake Ledge, walk back and look up at the unmistakable leaning crack.

Descent: Either locate the Discord rappel by walking climber's left once you reach the trees or continue walking climber's left to the descent gully.

Protection

Pitch 1: One old bolt anchor, bomber gear belay (C4 #.75 & #1) can be built in the crack to the right to supplement/replace.

A single standard rack from micro-cams to 3” will suffice (double C4 .75-1 could be useful if building anchor above P1).

Photos

Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
  5.9+
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
  5.9+
Commenting only on the first pitch, pretty intense, the lack of feet really got me and had me feeling really insecure. Very aesthetic but quite hard I found. Oct 21, 2013
Kedron Silsbee
Princeton, NJ
  5.9 PG13
Kedron Silsbee   Princeton, NJ
  5.9 PG13
Pitch one was fun, but it went steadily downhill from there. I thought the third pitch was 5.9 and somewhat scary (loose rock, uninspiring gear at the beginning). I broke a foothold at the crux of the traverse. Sep 17, 2013