Type: Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Patrick Munn and Dominic Eisinger, summer '94
Page Views: 1,772 total · 13/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Dec 14, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

As of the printing of the Don Mellor guidebook, this route has yet to see a first free ascent. That was in 2001. Considering all of the activity on Poke-O since then, it is hard to believe this route remains constant with one point of aid.

Then again, it is Poke-O.

Psalm 32--the song of forgiveness--is the tremendous, plumb line right of Southern Hospitality (5.11+) that snakes its' way up the cliff using incipient cracks, thin faces and corners.

Pitch 1:
Follow the crack in the vertical dike up to a series of bolts and a balancy crux sequence. Belay at bolts out right on a ledge under an ominous roof. 5.11+ / 60 feet

Pitch 2:
Crank up past the roof on the left and follow a tight line of bolts up a technically baffling face to another bolted belay on a small ledge. 5.12a/b / 90 feet

Pitch 3:
Follow the obvious right-facing corner to a point where the holds and free climbing runs out. Use bolts and aid technique to reach the anchor. (Note: There is a section of about 15 feet of aid to reach the anchor.) 5.12+, A0 / 100 feet

Location

About 80 feet to the right of Gamesmanship. on a low wall. Psalm 32 is the furthest crack line to the right.

Protection

10 quickdraws, and small rack of stoppers/RPs plus camming units up to a gold Camalot size.

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Cowboy Roy
SLC, UT
Cowboy Roy   SLC, UT
Has there still not been a free accent? Jul 18, 2012
Jim Lawyer    
 
Correct. The third pitch is one of Poke-O's great unfinished problems! It would be very exciting to see this freed (hint hint). Jul 18, 2012
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Has Pete K. given it any licks yet? Aug 28, 2012
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
  5.12a/b A0
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
  5.12a/b A0
Not to my knowledge, though he has worked on the project above "The Howling", I believe. Sep 3, 2012
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Pitch 1 is a brilliant exercise in balance and footwork. Well protected and sustained, but never desperate, with at least two no-hands rests. There is debate as to the grade of this pitch. Whatever the grade is, if you can climb 5.10 moves you can get up this safely. Jun 9, 2015