Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 723 total · 11/month
Shared By: rocknice2 on Sep 16, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

Jump on this route when it's dry. Good friction throughout.

P1- 5.10a PG13 Start from a bolted anchor on ledge and climb up to base of C-Tips to place your first pro. Continue traversing right with some gear [small nuts or large RP's useful] to a stance slightly above a bolt. Clip bolt and down climb [crux] below it. Make a series of long thin face moves to another stance [good gear once there] or down climb more [easier] to a second bolt [DON'T CLIP 2nd BOLT] traverse and climb up to stance. Make your way to the bolted rap station.

P2- 5.9+ G/5.7 R Climb the obvious crack to a pair of bolts then climb to a second pair of bolts. Move over the 2nd pair and climb easier with scarce pro to ledge.
One 50m rap or two 30m.

There are 2 or 3 more pitches above but I didn't do them.

Location

The ledge 20m right of The Great Dihedral. Same start as C-Tips.

Protection

.5" to 1.25" or Green Alien to Green X4 and some small nuts.
Doubles in .75" - 1." Yellow to Red Alien
Plus a #3 blue C4. A 2 works but 3 is better.
All anchors are bolted

Photos

Matt Salter
  5.10- PG13
Matt Salter  
  5.10- PG13
Excellent line. Agree with PG-13 on the first pitch, for both the leader and the follower. The anchor atop the second pitch needs some work; the right bolt is loose. We found it easy and worthwhile to traverse over to the top of C-Tips (roped up) and Rap with 1 rope from there. Aug 18, 2017