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Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Certified Raw T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior Varsity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Karmic Kickback T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menace To Sobriety S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
P.T. Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psalm 32 T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0
Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 340 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Denis Luther & James Debella 2007
Page Views: 678 total, 8/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Aug 29, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

Pandemonium offers a broad range of climbing styles in three distinct pitches with a noteworthy last pitch. You can approach Pitch 2 by various routes (Puppies on Edge, Hang 'Em High, Group Therapy, or Discord). As well, you could also take P2 of Discord to the ramp system of The Snake and meet up with the third pitch.

Pitch 1 (5.9): Start 20' right of Group Therapy, next to the large boulder. Work up a bulge to the wide crack. Up the crack then the slab above to easier terrain to the headwall and the bolted anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.8 PG): Step right from the fixed anchor to the zig-zag finger crack that opens up to an off-width. Climb the crack/off-width up to a vegetated section of the cliff and climb a short right-facing corner until you reach a short headwall with a mass of vegetation on your left. Step 10' left through the vegetation and climb up sparsely protected face climbing following the weakness up to the low-angle ramp of The Snake. Move left to the large pine tree with a fixed anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.10b): Move right ~15 feet to the groove with a low bolt. Work up the groove passing two bolts to a stance below the overhanging corner (potential 3-4" piece). Climb the overhanging corner (potentially wet) past a bolt (also small TCU placement) and then gain the ledge below the arete. Work left to a stance and a bolt. Work up the face (crux) to three more bolts, past two horizontals. At the last bolt (second horizontal) step right and climb the arete to the slab, and then to the top.

Location

Start: 20' right of Group Therapy
Descent: Rappel with two ropes from the fixed anchor at the top of the third pitch, trending right to the fixed anchor (P2 of Discord - ~130'). From here make a ~180' rappel to the ground.
Alternative Descent: Walk climber's left and descend via the descent gully.

Protection

Standard rack to 4".
Pitch 1: Two bolt anchor
Pitch 2: Fixed anchor on tree
Pitch 3: 7 bolts, fixed anchor on tree

Photos

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Derek Doucet
  5.10b
Derek Doucet  
  5.10b
Yup. That's what I'll do next time for sure, Jim. Just thought I'd give the full scoop on the rest of the route for those like me who prefer to do the complete route at least once. And agreed about P3. It's a good one. Aug 12, 2015
Jim Lawyer    
 
...or just solo The Snake and avoid all the hassles. P3 is a must-do. Aug 10, 2015
Derek Doucet
  5.10b
Derek Doucet  
  5.10b
P3 has some very good, steep climbing in a spectacular position. I'd call it a worthy 3-star pitch if it were right off the ground. Now about the rest of the route...

There are numerous options for P1, including the one listed in the book and Group Therapy, all ending at the Group Therapy anchor, and all perfectly fine as approaches to the climbing above.

P2 is junk, though with some aggressive cleaning of the crack could actually be OK. This would require the removal of copious amounts of vegetation, and excavating numerous loose, jammed flakes from the back of the crack. All this work would yield maybe a 1-star pitch though so it's probably best to just suck it up and climb the junk-show to reach the top pitch. It's well worth the effort.

FWIW, P1&2 can easily be combined with a 70m rope. Either way, I recommend clipping the first bolt of P3 before stepping left to the pine tree anchor and bringing up your second. There's actually a slippery move or two on P2, and the bolt provides a welcome directional. Aug 10, 2015
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
 
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
 
Pitch 3 will take an optional 3-4" piece and small C3 size pieces. I'm not sure if this pitch is supposed to be lead entirely on draws or not. The stemming corner was a little wet when I did it, the above pieces helped calm my mental anxiety. Aug 29, 2010