Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Oct. 9, 1995--Charles Pechousek, Bob Cartwright
Page Views: 3,955 total · 29/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 24, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

Poke-O is known for many aspects of climbing, but one in particular stands out for many climbers: Technical (read: Off-vertical) face climbing.

This route adds a more direct start to Cirrhosis, AND a full number grade of difficulty harder.

7 bolts protect the anchors and the end to a very thin and breath-taking route up a sheer, black face.

Start by mantling onto a shelf, then continue up the wall passing the crux at about 2/3 height. There are several spots along the climb where the climber will be making somewhat tenuous moves above bolts. So come armed with your vertical dancing shoes, and be sure to keep your wits together for this tremendous affair of the steep.

Location

Locate the Thunderhead roof at the far right end of the cliff. Menace To Sobriety is the blank, black face to right with a line of bolts up it.

Protection

7 bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Derek Doucet
  5.10c
Derek Doucet  
  5.10c
Linking this w/ P2 of Cirrhosis produces one of the finest 5.10 pitches at Poko, with varied, sustained and intricate climbing throughout. Highly recommended! Jun 10, 2010
Jim Lawyer    
 
Derek, there's even a photo of you on this route in the guidebook! Jun 10, 2010
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Did a hold or two break on this? Re-climbed it the other day and it felt quite a bit harder (and less enjoyable) than it did a few years back. And the person I was climbing with who had just onsighted a hard 5.11 had to hang on it.... Oct 23, 2013
rocknice2
Montreal, Quebec
  5.10d
rocknice2   Montreal, Quebec
  5.10d
I don't know what I was thinking calling this a 10c. maybe I was a better face technician back then. Anyway certainly felt like solid 10+ almost 11-.
The bolts are starting to show their age but are still safe IMHO. I will be changing them out for glueins. What do you guys think about how its bolted? Does it need more bolts? And it's possible to extend it to 35m. Oct 2, 2014
Derek Doucet
  5.10c
Derek Doucet  
  5.10c
No more bolts in my opinion! It's a little spicy as is (which is part of the appeal), but totally reasonable. It's such a great route as is. No need for more. 10+ seems fair, and consistent with other Poko face pitches. Oct 4, 2014
Jim Lawyer    
 
Hi Chuck, you created a superb route here!

I think the existing protection placement is masterful. If you think it can be longer, then yay!!! If you do, something to consider is to keep the lower anchor for those with 60m ropes? (Also, it's a useful anchor for the mixed/ice route that starts up the Thunderhead corner.) Another consideration is that this is the first pitch of an amazing, three-pitch, full-length linkup (MtS to Cirrhosis to Under the Influence).

Glue-ins are nice for sure, but perhaps overkill for this type of rock. SS is more than adequate. Oct 6, 2014
rocknice2
Montreal, Quebec
  5.10d
rocknice2   Montreal, Quebec
  5.10d
Replace all the bolts and anchor today. Almost added a bolt to where the optional gear placement is. Didn't do it. 7 shiny glue-ins and ring anchor. I did move the anchor off the large flake and put it to the right of the crack. Still on the same stance. Enjoy! Oct 3, 2015
Jim Lawyer    
 
Awesome news Chuck! Thanks for the community service. Oct 4, 2015
Evan Kirk  
 
As said before, use this to get to p2 of Cirrhosis and you will not be disappointed. Great climb on its own, even better with the linkup. Sep 16, 2016