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Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Certified Raw T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior Varsity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Karmic Kickback T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menace To Sobriety S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
P.T. Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psalm 32 T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0
Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Richard Goldstone and Ivan Rezucha 7/1976
Page Views: 3,482 total, 54/month
Shared By: Ed Wade on Aug 19, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

The obvious right facing dihedral that starts about 100 ft. off the ground. P1 starts by climbing cracks and blocks to a belay below the roof that is the base of the corner 5.8 (an uninteresting pitch) 100 ft. P2 climb up from the belay into the roof/chimney and then make a weird move back down and to the right to get established in the corner. Climb the beautiful dihedral (fingers, hands, stemming, a little OW ) for 150 ft. Maybe the best 5.9 pitch in the Adirondacks with excellent pro. P3 look for a bolt directly above then climb out right about 15 ft. then back left to clip the bolt then wander to the top looking for gear placements 5.8 pg13. A committing lead that is seldom done. Most parties rap from anchors at the top of the corner.

Location

This is the right facing corner of the huge block with the Snatch (left side corner). It's start is just before you head downhill toward Gamesmanship. Most parties rappel the route after P2 with 2 ropes.

Protection

A full rack up to #4 camalot.The corner takes wires nicely. There is a bolt on the face out left (another climb) that you can clip while doing the short offwidth section. Use long runners before the roof or backclean to reduce ropedrag. Anchors at the first belay and bolt anchors at the top of the corner.
Louis Hay
  5.9+ PG13
Louis Hay  
  5.9+ PG13
Has anyone ever continued up the dike at the end of the dihedral to the right until you reach another left facing dihedral about 90 feet away from the bolted anchor? That’s what we did because I wasn’t feeling the start of the 3rd pitch. The traverse was 5.easy and fairly well protected for 90 feet until you reach the bottom of the dihedral. I built an anchor on pro in the crack. Then I followed the crack of the dihedral up to the roof then followed the crack to the left to escape the roof. Then you need to downclimb a bit to stay in that same crack. You keep going left until you reach the slab to the top. It definitely felt like a first ascent as it was full of mushroom but the line was so obvious I’m sure someone has done it in the past. Oct 16, 2017
AJ
 
AJ  
 
Fantastic route, a definitive "old school classic."

+1 for Jim Lawyer's remark above - it is a shame someone bolted a variation within arm's reach of this beautiful climb. Oct 31, 2016
EricBacus
Germantown, NY
  5.10a/b
EricBacus   Germantown, NY
  5.10a/b
Did this as a "warm up" for some harder stuff. I think we got the order backwards. The other climbs would have been a good warm up for this!

This is very sustained and very involved. I'm not very good with dihedrals but it kicked my @##. Feels more like a .10 than a .9 and it has a very unusual crux. I imagine a lot of 5.10 face climbers get shut down by this.

Awesome and unique moves. Overall a great climb.

  • **
We moved the belay up above the rap station built with larger gear. Both belays are cramped but the above one is much better. There might be a chance that the climber could land on the belayer if they blow the crux! (An added incentive for success.)

A 70m rope allows for a rap from atop the second pitch with a few extra feet (knots!) Jun 2, 2016
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
This route is incredible!!!!

It is an aesthetic, dramatic, exposed, clean, sweeping dihedral that is uncharacteristic of most climbs in the East.

This climb is underappreciated and under-climbed.

The gear is good in my opinion.

It is stout and sustained! "5.9" for the 5.10 climber. If you are solid at the 5.10 grade you need to get on this. Bring some rp's for the thin section leading into the chimney as I recall.

If you link the first two pitches from the ground you create a tremendous marathon pitch - perhaps the greatest single pitch at Poke-O!!!! Jun 19, 2015
Jim Lawyer    
 
RG: Well, there's not a bolt "in the offwidth". It's left, around the corner, and on another route. That said, the fact that it can be clipped from this route is seen by many to be too close, and takes something away from the aesthetics and adventure of this great line. It's still there, so perhaps nobody cares enough about it. Apr 30, 2014
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
Hmm. Perhaps worth noting that when Ivan and I did the route, nuts were all we had, and nothing as big as those recommended cams. Of course, there was no bolt in the offwidth either.

I protected the exit from what now seems to be called the Houdini Slot by climbing up into it, reaching around to the outside, and placing a nut in the crack in the dihedral. Normally, this would be a totally blind placement but in this case I could observe what I was doing from "inside" the crack because of my position in the slot. This gave overhead protection for the moves out of the slot and only required a normal-sized piece of gear, as did the rest of the route. Apr 29, 2014
Mark Trotta
Latham, NY
Mark Trotta   Latham, NY
Comments about gear:

I recommend building a gear anchor at the top of pitch one above the chockstone that is wrapped with tat that normally passes for the anchor. You'll be a lot more comfortable: no hanging belay. Threrfore bring an extra #2 & #3 for that.

I got by using only the lone fixed sling for the Houdini slot crux but looking back that wasn't the safest. I recommend a #3 or #4 deep in the top of the slot for that crux. The rest can go with a single set of cams. In fact the small ones can be replaced by nuts only. Only other thing I recommend is to skip the bolt protection of the off width and do it with a little more style: bring a #5 or #6. They might need to be buried but hey.

Also the rope will really drag if its been pulled in under the slot so take care to extnd those pieces adequately. Aug 25, 2013
Ben Brotelho
Albany, NY
Ben Brotelho   Albany, NY
Rgold...got any pics of this route? Maybe Ivan does. I've been wanting to do this one for quite a while now! Apr 16, 2013
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
Although it is true that Ivan and I made the first free ascent of Pitch 2 in 1976, the first two pitches were climbed the year before by Geoff Smith and Dave Hough using a single point of aid at the crux of Pitch 2. (I should add that Ivan and I had no idea whether anyone had climbed the route when we tried it. Ivan had been thinking about trying it for a while.)

After Pitch 2, Ivan and I declined to try the unprotected-looking current Pitch 3 and instead finished via the SRT. I later returned and did Pitch 3, but by then Smith and Hough had returned themselves and done it, placing a bolt after a very awkward and trying unprotected traverse.

Thus the first free ascent of the complete route was by Smith and Hough in 1976. However, it seems that their third pitch has never found much favor, and so most parties end their engagement with the first two pitches freed by Ivan and me. Mar 1, 2013