Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Certified Raw T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior Varsity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Karmic Kickback T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menace To Sobriety S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
P.T. Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psalm 32 T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0
Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: John Turner & Hugh Tanton
Page Views: 1,459 total, 17/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Nov 13, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

Pitch 1 (5.7 G 60'): Start up the back of the depression and ascend a crack system that leads to a small overhang. Bypass this to the right, via a hand crack in a short left-facing corner which leads to a pleasant belay ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.7+ PG 100'): Gain the foot ledge 10' above the belay ledge and traverse to the shallow right-facing corner (pro). Traverse left out of the corner (crux, worse for second) to a series of right-facing corners. Follow the weakness up past a couple fixed pins, keeping an eye climber's left for a spacious belay ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.7 R 50'): Make committing, unprotected moves off the ledge using the right-facing corner/arete to a small stance with an opportunity to get some solid gear (RPs, small stoppers). Move right to gain a low-angle ramp system (good gear) and follow this to the large right-facing corner/v-slot to the right of the large roof and a disconcerting fixed anchor (a nest of crap on a slung feature, an old ring piton, and a solid bolt). Beware, loose rock at the fixed anchor.

(Pitch 4: 5.7 PG 100'): Climb the right-facing corner/v-slot (past some fixed pins) until a very obvious traverse presents itself. Traverse left 15' to the blunt arete (keep eyes open for a fixed pin around the arete). Follow a good series of large edges to the top and a fixed anchor on a tree. Beware, loose rock on this pitch. You can position your belayer under the roof with a little planning at the P3 belay.

Location

Start: 50 yards uphill and climber's left from the Positive Thinking area between The Nose and The Great Dihedral.

Descent: Using double ropes, the guide recommends rappelling from the tree at the top of P4 to the P2 anchors. We did this and our ropes presented themselves as un-pullable. The tree on top of P4 is set far back and there is a lot of vegetation that adds friction to the ropes when being pulled. There is a set of three bolts 20' down and climber's left of the P4 tree, you'll have to rappel through a mess of brush to get there and once there, the stance is less than ideal. However, your ropes will pull smoothly at the P2 belay.

Protection

Protection: Single rack to BD #3 C4, RPs (micro-stoppers); Fixed Anchors at all belays

Photos

Comments about loose rock at the pitch 3 belay are not to be taken lightly. In July while scoping out the route a party above us knocked off 4 or 5 cinder block sized blocks that careened and luckily just missed my girlfriend and me. It was a terrifying moment for the both of us. Wear a helmet when walking below the cliff and please be careful of loose rock. Have fun out there friends! Sep 12, 2015
So not much is written about this climb and I did it this weekend and loved it. Yes, a bit scary at times, but nothing a solid leader with a good head couldnt handle.

For P1, the belay is two bolts and cannot be seen from the ground.

On P2, first go right and up the corner (gear available) and traverse back left over the belay to the other corner (gear also available for the upcoming traverse, double ropes helpful). Then step down and around the edge to the left. A fall here would be interesting but not fatal at all as the last gear placement is great. then go up a series of corners heading up and left. When you get to a section that looks very dirty, go left around the arete to the hidden anchor (also two bolts). You can rap to ground from here with 2 60m ropes. Don't know if one would do it.

P3 is heady off the bolts. Go up the corner and about 15 feet higher is a horn/block on the left that can be slung and secured with a nut. After, that the ramp is great for gear. P3 is short and ends on the right side of the huge roof at the bottom of the giant corner. The anchor here is very sketchy (one bolt, and a slung fin). Also keep in mind that the rocks at this belay are loose and directly above the start.

P4 goes up the dirty corner (2 pitons, hollow rock) then traverses left to the arete and scales the right side of the arete. There is a piton around the corner of the arete and I suggest you clip it as protection thereafter is finicky. When you get to the grassy ledge, the tree anchor is about 20 feet recessed. Be mindful of your feet going up the grass as a fall would be nasty. Overall a fun route worth doing to the top.

Two raps with 60m ropes gets you to the ground (rap from top anchor through giant roof to top of P2; angle straight down, don't go down the dirty corner to the right). We had no issues pulling ropes. Sep 30, 2013
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
 
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
 
On Pitch 3 you make committing moves off the belay with no gear. There is a chance to get a less than ideal RP in before making the most committing of moves, but I question whether an RP will hold with only 10-15 feet of rope out. If you see water running down from above the belay, you might consider just bailing at that point. If the corner and ramp are wet, you might be in for a scary pitch and you may find it hard to reverse the moves back to the belay from where you get your first look at the ramp. Nov 14, 2010