Avg: 2.5 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||John Turner & Hugh Tanton|
|Page Views:||2,120 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Kuchyt on Nov 13, 2010|
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Pitch 2 (5.7+ PG 100'): Gain the foot ledge 10' above the belay ledge and traverse to the shallow right-facing corner (pro). Traverse left out of the corner (crux, worse for second) to a series of right-facing corners. Follow the weakness up past a couple fixed pins, keeping an eye climber's left for a spacious belay ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.7 R 50'): Make committing, unprotected moves off the ledge using the right-facing corner/arete to a small stance with an opportunity to get some solid gear (RPs, small stoppers). Move right to gain a low-angle ramp system (good gear) and follow this to the large right-facing corner/v-slot to the right of the large roof and a disconcerting fixed anchor (a nest of crap on a slung feature, an old ring piton, and a solid bolt). Beware, loose rock at the fixed anchor.
(Pitch 4: 5.7 PG 100'): Climb the right-facing corner/v-slot (past some fixed pins) until a very obvious traverse presents itself. Traverse left 15' to the blunt arete (keep eyes open for a fixed pin around the arete). Follow a good series of large edges to the top and a fixed anchor on a tree. Beware, loose rock on this pitch. You can position your belayer under the roof with a little planning at the P3 belay.
Descent: Using double ropes, the guide recommends rappelling from the tree at the top of P4 to the P2 anchors. We did this and our ropes presented themselves as un-pullable. The tree on top of P4 is set far back and there is a lot of vegetation that adds friction to the ropes when being pulled. There is a set of three bolts 20' down and climber's left of the P4 tree, you'll have to rappel through a mess of brush to get there and once there, the stance is less than ideal. However, your ropes will pull smoothly at the P2 belay.