Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Julien Dery, 6/7/86
Page Views: 1,952 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 10, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

During the 1980s, Montreal climber, Julien Dery, brought to Poke-O-Moonshine a modern approach to rock climbing. This cornucopia of a thin finger "crack", balancy face climbing, and small, well-spaced gear make this route an instant Adirondack classic.

Start the route on the main face of the P.T. Pillar, climbing up through several slopey ledges to gain the first of a series of hard moves protected by two bolts (a third bolt is missing its hanger). Gain the vertical fissure and make some wild moves up the crack, involving some high stepping on "nothing smears", and a few Hail Mary stabs to the credit card edges of the finger crack.

The route eases off about 10 feet from the top where some larger incuts are reached, and the angle lessens noticably to less than vertical.

Location

On the face of the giant P.T. Pillar are two low bolts. This is Macho.

Protection

2 bolts, a rack of small wires, RPs, and small units from #00 TCU to green Aliens. Several QDs.

Photos