Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Julien Dery, 6/7/86
Page Views: 1,441 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 10, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

During the 1980s, Montreal climber, Julien Dery, brought to Poke-O-Moonshine a modern approach to rock climbing. This cornucopia of a thin finger "crack", balancy face climbing, and small, well-spaced gear make this route an instant Adirondack classic.

Start the route on the main face of the P.T. Pillar, climbing up through several slopey ledges to gain the first of a series of hard moves protected by two bolts (a third bolt is missing its hanger). Gain the vertical fissure and make some wild moves up the crack, involving some high stepping on "nothing smears", and a few Hail Mary stabs to the credit card edges of the finger crack.

The route eases off about 10 feet from the top where some larger incuts are reached, and the angle lessens noticably to less than vertical.

Location

On the face of the giant P.T. Pillar are two low bolts. This is Macho.

Protection

2 bolts, a rack of small wires, RPs, and small units from #00 TCU to green Aliens. Several QDs.

Photos

Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11b
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11b
While this route certainly isn't G, I don't think it's R. It protects sufficiently with micros to small nuts and black to red aliens. Gear can be tricky to place which could make for a spicy lead.

I don't know about any larger incuts at the top. Near the top I traversed right into a finger crack. That's what the topo in Adk Rock shows as well.

The third bolt had a hanger as of 5/22/10. May 25, 2010
Derek Doucet
  5.11b PG13
Derek Doucet  
  5.11b PG13
Agreed^^. There is some long, clean fall potential high on the route, on to good gear. It's definitely pretty heady, but probably not especially dangerous for a 5.11 leader with very good protection placement skills. There's nothing to hit, after all. This all sounds much more reasonable from my keyboard than high on the route, of course! Jun 9, 2010
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
11a is a bit of a sand-bag for this sustained test piece. The Mellor guide gave it a straight up 11 rating which is more on realistic, IMHO. Gear is excellent, though it is extremely difficult to place and care must be taken to not hog up the limited finger-tip real-estate. Zen-like concentration and balance is required. Aug 16, 2010
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11b
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11b
I led this again for the first time in four years. I found it much harder and scarier than I remembered. Jul 7, 2014
Jerome St-Michel
Montreal, QUÉBEC
  5.11b PG13
Jerome St-Michel   Montreal, QUÉBEC
  5.11b PG13
Finally redpointed that thing after some long falls! It is definitely a spicy lead! Nov 21, 2017